Openwork: Inside the Watch Industry
Openwork is a weekly podcast that offers an unfiltered look behind the scenes of the watch industry, hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology. It avoids press releases, hype, and sponsored content, focusing on how the industry actually works. Available on major podcast platforms.
Episodes
We Sued to Stop Tariffs – And Rolex Is Reshaping Retail – Episode 90
In Episode 90 of Openwork, Collective Horology co-founders Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin reveal that they've sued the U.S. federal government over the tariffs squeezing the watch industry and small businesses nationwide. They explain why they joined the suit alongside co-plaintiff Burlap Barrel, how the latest Section 301 tariffs continue to limit access to independent watches, and why it's the vol
The Watch Switzerland Can't Make – Karel Bachand (Barrelhand) – Episode 89
A quick news note: On Friday, July 24, Collective, along with New York spice importer Burlap & Barrel, filed a lawsuit in the U.S. Court of International Trade challenging the federal government's latest Section 301 tariffs. We'll dig into the details on our next episode. In the meantime, you can read more here.
On this episode of Openwork, Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin talk with Karel Bachand,
The Rise of Tudor – How Rolex Wins by Letting Tudor Dare – Episode 88
How did Tudor go from a brand you couldn't even buy in the United States to a half-billion-dollar powerhouse selling 300,000 watches a year? In this episode of Openwork, Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin trace the rise of Tudor — from its wilderness years in the shadow of Rolex to the 2009 reinvention that produced the Heritage Chrono, the Black Bay, the Pelagos, and an in-house movement. Along the way
Bonus: Reviving the U.S. Watch Industry – Josh Shapiro (J.N. Shapiro) – Episode 41
To mark 250 years of American independence, we're revisiting one of our favorite conversations: our sit-down with Josh Shapiro, the American independent watchmaker behind the Resurgence — the only watch that currently meets the U.S. Federal Trade Commission's standard for "Made in America." It's a fitting week to ask a question that feels newly urgent in an era of tariffs and reshoring: what would
The Analog Boom – Watch Sales Surge to Start 2026 – Episode 87
This week we're proud to welcome Bamford London to the Collective line card. George Bamford is the OG of modern collaborative watchmaking, but it's his own designs — the D300 Ceramic Diver, the Monopushers, the GMTs — that pulled us in: pieces that read as instantly recognizable without ever aping the usual suspects, built from forged carbon, ceramic, and titanium, at a genuinely accessible price.
Bonus: The Watches of Armin Strom – Claude Greisler (Co-founder & Master Watchmaker) – Episode 86
We're on summer hours, but we wanted to keep something in your feed as much as we can — so this one comes from our Watches Of podcast, a conversation Gabe recorded in person with Claude Greisler of Armin Strom. Claude is one of the brand's two modern co-founders and its master watchmaker, and he made the trip out to Los Angeles for Open House, where a full spread of the Armin Strom collection was
Tariffs on the Rise (Again) – New Justifications, Higher Rates – Episode 85
Gabe heads to Las Vegas for one of the largest trade shows in the watch and jewelry world — a B2B behemoth that's quietly making a bigger play for watches than ever before. He breaks down what the show gets right, where it falls short of the events collectors actually obsess over, and the one brand on the floor that genuinely stopped him in his tracks across every price point imaginable.
Then the
Open House Recap – Inside LA's First and Only Independent Watch Show – Episode 84
Morning after Open House 2026 — the biggest event Collective Horology has ever thrown. Now in its third year at The Aster in Hollywood, the fair pulled 400+ people through the door, a line down the street, a closed RSVP, and attendees who flew in from as far as Boston. Gabe and Asher dig into why a show built entirely around esoteric, left-of-center independents draws such a self-selecting crowd:
Watch Retail Consolidates, Rapidly – What It Means for the Industry and Enthusiasts – Episode 83
While preparing to speak on a panel about the rapidly changing state of American watch retail, Gabe stumbles onto an annual industry report that ranks the largest jewelry and watch retailers by revenue — and what he finds stops him cold. The company sitting at the very top of the list is one neither he nor Asher had ever heard of: a quiet giant operating thousands of doors in plain sight. And the
The Quiet Giants – How Seiko, Citizen, and Casio Each Cleared a Billion – Episode 82
Seiko, Citizen, and Casio each pulled in over a billion dollars in revenue last year — in most cases record-breaking, and all three landing neck and neck around $1.3 billion with healthy 9–14% net margins. That's remarkable on its own. It's stunning when you remember it happened in the same sub-$5,000 segment that's been punishing the Swiss. While Swatch Group struggles and the broader industry hu
Royal Flop? – AP x Swatch: Brand Building or Crisis Management? – Episode 81
We recorded today's episode on May 13, just a few days before the AP Swatch Royal Pop went on sale. We discuss the decision-making and implications of this project for both companies' brands and businesses, and for many reasons, we consistently question why AP in particular would partner with Swatch on this project. On the positive side, we do point out Swatch's competencies in production, distrib
How Watches Get Allocated – It's Not Just Spend History – Episode 80
Why do some watches always seem to go to the same people? Listener Terry wrote in with a question we hear constantly: how do brands and authorized dealers actually decide who gets the most in-demand pieces? Is it spend, celebrity, genuine interest, or something else? Gabe and Asher walk through the five allocation models that govern how hot watches move from manufacturer to wrist — closed-door all
Against All Odds – How Richemont, LVMH and Swatch Recovered in Q4 2025 – Episode 79
If you'd told Gabe and Asher on August 7th — the day the U.S. announced a 39% tariff on Switzerland — that the holding companies would close out 2025 with their watch businesses up, they wouldn't have believed it. But that's what happened. Richemont's watch division grew 7% year over year. Swatch Group posted 7.2%. LVMH's watches and jewelry held flat while fashion softened around it. The top line
Breitling vs. Richemont – Opposite Bets on an Industry in Flux – Episode 78
A grand reorganization of the luxury watch business is happening in front of us, and nowhere is it more visible than in the diverging strategies of two holding companies making opposite bets on the future. Gabe and Asher unpack the contrast between Breitling, which under Georges Kern has quietly reconstituted itself as a private-equity-backed challenger group — bulking up through the acquisitions
The Sleepers of Watches and Wonders 2026 – Our Favorite Releases from Geneva – Episode 77
Gabe and Asher are back from Geneva, lightly jet-lagged after roughly 30 meetings across three days at Watches and Wonders. Rather than rehash the releases everyone already covered, this episode is dedicated to the watches they think didn't get the attention they deserved. The rule: hands-on only. Four picks each, plus a few honorable mentions.
The list spans a revived historical brand delivering
Is Watches and Wonders Dead? – Long Live Geneva Watch Week – Episode 76
Gabe and Asher bring a firsthand report from Watches and Wonders 2026 in Geneva, jet‑lagged but watch‑fueled. They walk listeners through the week’s key impressions: a general sense of underwhelming novelties from the big brands, alongside impressive investments in booth design and production value.
The episode zeroes in on Audemars Piguet’s controversial, fully walled booth and strict queuing sys
Watch Brand Draft – Picking
Our Fantasy
Watch
Businesses – Episode 75
Gabe and Asher conduct the first-ever Openwork Watch Brand Draft — a snake-style, six-pick fantasy exercise where each host selects watch brands they'd want to own and operate across three categories: independent, micro/challenger (under $5,000), and mainstream luxury. Ground rules exclude AP, Patek, Rolex, Richard Mille, and any brand Collective Horology carries, keeping the conversation free of
The Rise of F.P.Journe – Hype, Substance, or Both? – Episode 74
Gabe and Asher explore the rise of F.P. Journe — how a fiercely opinionated French watchmaker who was expelled from horological school at 16 built one of the most coveted brands in the world. They trace Journe's journey from launching at Baselworld in 1999 through two decades as a respected but niche independent, into the COVID-era explosion that turned $25,000 Chronomètre Bleus into $100,000 comm
Rolex Pre-owned Values Slide – Certified Pre-owned to the Rescue? – Episode 73
Gabe and Asher kick off with the Dominique Renaud Pulse60 launch, which became the most talked-about watch of the week — not through traditional media, but through private collector communities and group chats. It's a perfect case study in how watch media has gone full circle, and why independents continue to thrive even in a cooling market.
The main discussion unpacks a counterintuitive dyn
Unexpected Winners in a Down Market – Independents, Microbrands & Neo-vintage – Episode 72
The Swiss watch industry is in one of its most difficult periods in decades, with ten established brands down 15% or more in revenue — but that doesn't mean everything is struggling. In this episode, Gabe and Asher explore three segments of the market that are thriving against the tide: independent watchmakers, microbrands brands, and neo-vintage. Along the way, they examine why brands like Bregue
Speculation Season – Rolex GMT Master, Swiss Watch Data, & Betting Markets – Episode 71
Rumours about the Rolex GMT Master II Pepsi have reached a boiling point. Authorised dealer websites — controlled by Rolex, not the retailers — have quietly dropped the reference, and WatchPro is reporting that dealers have been told to expect no further deliveries. Asher finds it a dull story; Gabe is more interested in what comes next from Rolex in dress watches, the 1908 collection, and whether
The Rise & Retreat of Jaeger‑LeCoultre – Can Going Independent Save the Brand? – Episode 70
Jaeger-LeCoultre was once the top-selling watch brand in the Richemont Group, a top-10 brand globally, and a GPHG darling under the legendary Gunter Blumlein. Today, it's slipped to number 16 in the industry and lost much of its cultural relevance. What happened?
Gabe and Asher unpack JLC's rise, decline, and possible rebirth in light of reports that a consortium led by CEO Jerome Lambert may acqu
Tariffs Overturned: Relief or False Hope? – Plus Rolex & AP Grow on Scarcity – Episode 69
Update: As of February 21, 2026, the Trump administration now says they will set the new "Global Tariff" rate at 15% (not 10%), maintaining the same effective rate on Switzerland, at least for 150 days.
On this episode, we unpack breaking news that sent shockwaves through the watch world: the U.S. Supreme Court struck down the Trump-era emergency tariffs, instantly voiding the recent 15% levy on
Some Brands Break Away. Others Break Down – Watch Brand Spin-offs Gone Right and Wrong – Episode 68
In this episode, we dive into the growing wave of consolidation—and potential deconsolidation—sweeping through the watch industry, from confirmed brand sales to mounting rumors around major maisons. Rather than speculate, we focus on what actually happens after a brand leaves a luxury group, and why leadership, distribution, and product strategy matter far more than deal headlines.
First, we unpac
V-shaped Recovery? – The Watch Industry Shows Early Signs of a Turn-around – Episode 67
On this episode, we zoom out to the state of the watch business, using Watches of Switzerland as a real-time bellwether. We unpack strong holiday performance alongside shrinking margins, then dig into accelerating U.S. retail consolidation: why large groups are acquiring family-owned authorized dealers, how Rolex factors into approvals and allocations, and what this growing concentration could mea
Watch Groups Are Slimming Down – Brand Exits, Consolidation and a Return to Focus
On this episode, we zoom out and examine a broader shift underway in the watch industry as major groups begin to prioritize focus over expansion. Using the sale of Baume & Mercier as a starting point, we break down why brand exits and portfolio pruning have returned as strategic tools, and what this move reveals about consolidation, integration costs, and the realities of owning watch brands a
Pre-owned Prices Rise. Sort of. – Plus, Patek Philippe Lowers Prices – Episode 65
On this episode, we dig into reports that Patek Philippe may roll back U.S. retail prices—by as much as 8%—after last year’s sharp tariff- and currency-driven increases. We break down why the math isn’t as simple as tariffs going down and prices following, how import costs actually work at the wholesale level, and why this move raises uncomfortable questions for collectors who bought during the pe
How Global Wealth Drives The Watch Industry – Millionaires Surge, Yet The Industry Slumps – Episode 64
On this episode, we dig into how global wealth trends—rather than hype cycles or short-term market noise—are reshaping the luxury watch industry. Drawing on reporting originally published by ScrewDownCrown (Substack), we use the UBS Global Wealth Report to examine the rapid rise of the “EMILLI” cohort: individuals with $1–5 million in net worth. This group has quadrupled since 2000 and now represe
Yes, More Price Increases – Rolex, AP, Tudor, and Why the US Is Getting Hit Harder Than Europe – Episode 63
We kick off the first Openwork episode of 2026 by breaking down the latest watch price increases from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Tudor, with a sharp focus on why U.S. buyers are seeing significantly higher jumps than Europe and the UK. We unpack how tariffs, currency swings, commodity prices, and inflation are converging—and why, once prices move up, they almost never come back down. We also cont
The Dive Watches of Ming – The Watches of Podcast – Episode 62
On this episode, we share something a little different by sharing an installment from The Watches of Podcast, a new series where we step away from industry-wide analysis and focus deeply on individual brands—their history, philosophy, people, and, importantly, their watches.
Each episode is designed as a focused, evergreen exploration of a single brand, and here we use that format to zero in on Mi
2026 Watch Industry Predictions – A Year of Recovery, Though Scars Remain – Episode 61
On this episode, we step back to assess where the watch industry actually landed in 2025, revisiting our prior predictions with a focus on the bigger forces at work rather than scorekeeping. We talk candidly about the pressure points that defined the year—pricing fatigue, currency and tariff shocks, and the uneven mood among collectors—while also acknowledging the resilience of independent watchma
The Watch Industry Ends the Year Down – As Pressures Compound, Swiss Exports Drop – Episode 60
On this episode of Openwork, we dig into the long-awaited reduction of U.S. tariffs on Swiss watches, which finally dropped from 39% to 15% after weeks of confusion and delay. We explain what actually changed, why the rollout took more than a month after the initial agreement, and how the U.S. customs system ultimately flipped the switch. While the lower rate is meaningful relief for the industry,
Ditching the Luxury Script for Independent Watches – Geoff Souder (Collective) – Episode 59
In this episode of Openwork, we talk with our sales director, Geoff Souder, about what fundamentally changes when you move from selling traditional luxury watches to selling independent brands. Drawing on decades of experience with mainstream names like Rolex and Patek Philippe, Geoff explains how scale and standardization create a polished but often homogenous retail experience, then contrasts th
Signs of Hope for an Industry Under Pressure – Tariffs, Supplier Woes, the Rise of India and New Releases – Episode 58
Openwork is going weekly. In addition to our classic shows which focus on a specific topic or guest, we’re introducing a new format: a discussion of current events in the watch industry. So this week, we take a look at some tariff news (or lack thereof), supplier challenges, the significant growth of India, along with a few new releases.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Colle
Embracing Risk & Managing Hype – Sylvain Berneron (Berneron) – Episode 57
Today we’re talking about the rise of independent hype watches. Until very recently, as we’ve discussed on this podcast, independent watchmaking was something of a backwater of the watch industry or at best the realm of the cognoscenti. But in recent years, creations from the likes of MB&F, Simon Brette, Rexhep Rexhepi and today’s guest Sylvain Berneron have become objects of desire, cutthroat
2025 GPHG Dispatch – We're in Geneva for this Year's "Oscar's of Watchmaking" – Episode 56
This week we’re coming to you from Geneva, where we’ve attended the GPHG award ceremony, celebrated Czapek’s 10th anniversary, and had some time to experience the city’s horological treasures. We share a recap of our time in Geneva, including what everyone who attended the GPHG is really talking about.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside
Watchmaker, Writer, and Brand Executive – Rob Nudds (The RealTime Show, Arcanaut) – Episode 55
Today we’re talking to someone who has made the transition from watchmaker to journalist to watch brand executive. In fact, it’s not so much a transition but a career expansion as he still assembles watches while creating copious content and works in various business roles for a number of watch brands. Of course, we’re talking to none other than Rob Nudds, the watch industry’s renaissance man.
Rob
The Rise & Retreat of Omega – From Industry Leader to Challenger Brand – Episode 54
It’s the Omega-sode. We’re taking a look at the business of Omega: How they went from the world’s number one watch brand – both in terms of sales and units shipped – to number three, what happened along the way, and where they may be headed next.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.
You can find us online at collective
Inside New York Watch Week – Nicholas Bowman-Scargill (Fears) – Episode 53
We're live at WatchTime New York 2025 with Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, 4th Managing Director of Fears. We discuss the growth of WindUp, WatchTime and the many other watch happenings in New York this past week, including what the brands are talking about behind closed doors. Yes, a bit of tea.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch i
How the 'Big Four' Took Over – 2018-2024 Watch Market Shifts – Episode 52
We’re taking a look at how the watch market has shifted in the past half decade plus. In particular, we’re taking a look at what’s changed since Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult published their first annual watch industry report in 2018 – which brands and segments are up and down, how tastes are changing, and so much more.
For full show notes, including links to coverage on the Morgan Stanley and Lu
What's Going on at Bremont? – Inside the British Brand's 2024 Earnings – Episode 51
On September 5, 2025 under British law and as originally reported in WatchPro, Bremont filed their 2024 financial year report, which saw the brand post a whopping £9 million (GBP) loss. In addition to the numbers, the report reveals a great deal about the state of Bremont’s business and their strategy going forward. Now although just filed this month, the reporting period ends June 2024, so a lot
Our Favorite Watches – Geneva Watch Days 2025 – Episode 50
Before we leave Geneva, we’re back with a recap of our favorite watches – all of them unexpected and expressions of unique points of view.
Full show notes below with photos, more information and links: collectivehorology.com/blog.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.
You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To
Geneva Watch Days 2025 – Facing Global Challenges, the Watch Industry Turns to Creativity – Episode 49
We're live from Switzerland with our take on Geneva Watch Days 2025. We discuss what we're hearing in the meeting rooms, our takeaways from this week's releases, as well as how the show and industry more broadly are adapting to a turbulent environment.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.
You can find us online at coll
The Watch Industry’s Busiest Summer – Geneva Watch
Days Preview,
Swiss Exports,
Plus Richemont
Earnings – Episode 48
Summertime, usually a downtime in the watch industry, has been particularly busy this year. On this episode of Openwork, we're looking at three timely stories: A preview of Geneva Watch Days, the latest Swiss watch export data, and Richemont's most recent quarterly earnings. Taken all together, these current events demonstrate the watch industry isn't lacking for intrigue in the waning days of sum
The Industry's Most Important Watches – From the Quartz Crisis to Today – Episode 47
On this episode of Openwork, we explore the watches that shaped both the watch industry and global culture. Our focus is on the modern era—from the Quartz Crisis to today.
Each of us selects three watches that transformed the industry, influenced how we collect, and left their mark far beyond the world of horology. We also each choose the most important industry executive of the same period.
For f
39% Swiss Tariffs – Implications
for the Watch Industry,
Plus What Happens Next – Episode 46
On July 31, the United States announced a new reciprocal tariff rate of 39% on imports from Switzerland, starting August 7, 2025. These tariffs have sweeping implications for the Swiss watch industry and the global watch industry more broadly.
On this episode of Openwork we discuss those effects, along with what to look for next. How will negotiations play out? And how will the watch industry navi
Cars vs. Watches – Wesley Smith (STANDARD H) – Episode 45
Today, it’s cars vs. watches. In particular, we’re looking at the automotive world, which is often compared to the watch industry—including on this podcast—to see what it might teach us about watches.
Our guest is Wesley Smith, the founder of STANDARD H, a California-based apparel and lifestyle brand inspired by his lifelong passions for cars, watches, travel, and design. With over 20 years of ret
Certified Pre-owned: Fad or Fixture? – Hamza Masood (WatchCharts) – Episode 44
Today we’re talking about the rise of certified pre-owned programs – the current state of the CPO universe, the value of those programs, and where it’s all going.
And to do that, we have the perfect returning guest, Hamza Masood of WatchCharts – the world's most comprehensive, transparent and trusted source of watch market data. Hamza and WatchCharts were among the first to track and call-out the
Watch Market Update – State of the Industry Mid-year 2025 – Episode 43
We’re half way through 2025, which has turned out to be a very eventful year to say the least, and that very much shows up in the data for the watch market. So today we’re looking at all the data sources we can muster to understand just how the watch industry is faring at the midway point of 2025, and where it might be heading next.
We looked at a wide variety of sources from WatchCharts, to trade
What Enthusiasts Have Wrong – Dispelling the Watch Industry's Top Myths – Episode 42
Having made the transition from watch enthusiasts to industry insiders and retailers in particular, we’ve come to realize that there are often big gaps between what commands attention in watch media and among collectors vs. the commercial realities.
Many of the so-called “truths” we hold sacred as enthusiasts aren’t really true after all. So today on Openwork, we’re myth busting – taking a look at
Reviving the U.S. Watch Industry – Josh Shapiro (J.N. Shapiro) – Episode 41
We discuss watchmaking in America – specifically what’s required to bring watchmaking at scale back to the United States. It’s a hot topic these days, particularly as U.S. tariffs, which have been dominating the news, are intended at least in part to bring manufacturing back to the United States. So with that in mind, we thought it would be worth taking a look at what would actually be required to
Editorial Integrity in Watch Media – Victoria Gomelsky (JCK, New York Times, Robb Report) – Episode 40
Editorial integrity and independence in the watch world. It’s a hot topic, and one we’ve explored before. But that was before today’s guest penned her open letter to the watch industry published in Robb Report titled: "Watch Execs Need to Learn to Respect Journalistic Boundaries."
Victoria Gomelsky is editor-in-chief of JCK, a New York City-based jewelry trade publication founded in 1869. Her writ
Double Whammy of Tariffs and Foreign Exchange Rates – And How the Watch Industry Is Responding – Episode 39
We’re going inside the industry response to the double whammy of US tariffs and foreign exchange rates. We’re going to address common myths, offer a look behind the scenes at the industry response, and discuss the implications for watchmaking in the US.
For detailed show notes, including links to more information, visit collectivehorology.com/blog.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founde
Watch Collectors Become More Discerning – Collective Voice Spring 2025 Listener Survey Results – Episode 38
We delve into the results of the Spring 2025 Collective Voice Survey, our twice-yearly report on how collectors feel about all things watches.
Our Spring 2025 survey offers a fresh look at what’s on the minds of watch enthusiasts—what excites them, what frustrates them, and how those feelings translate (or don’t) into actual buying behavior. Just like our inaugural survey in Summer 2024, this roun
Special Episode: The Unsung Watches of Watches and Wonders 2025 – Episode 37
After a busy week in Geneva, we recap the most interesting watches we saw that aren't otherwise getting much attention. Visit the Collective blog for show notes with live photos and links: collectivehorology.com/blog.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.
You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch
Watches and Wonders 2025 – The Watch Industry Adapts to a New Normal – Episode 36
Recorded at Watches and Wonders 2025, we look at the current state of the show, some of the most interesting releases from a business standpoint, and even a few personal highlights.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.
You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or quest
The Rise of Independent Watchmaking – Tim Jackson (Independent in Time) – Episode 35
These days, it seems like independent watchmakers and brands are everywhere – celebrated in watch media, on display at major retailers worldwide, hotly discussed in collector circles, and of course gaining share in an otherwise entrenched industry. But it’s an overnight success decades in the making. And today we have the perfect guest to guide us through the rise of the independents: Tim Jackson.
The Unspoken Realities of Swiss Production – Praneeth Rajsingh (CEO, MING Watches) – Episode 34
We’re joined by Praneeth Rajsingh, CEO of Horologer MING, to discuss the realities of watchmaking in Switzerland. While most watch brands are incredibly secretive about production, MING is remarkably transparent. So we invited Praneeth to discuss how exactly watch production in Switzerland works – warts and all. We discuss how the brand has evolved to be able to produce watches using movements and
Inside the Shadowy Auction Industry – Marion Maneker (Puck News) – Episode 33
Auction houses – they loom large in the world of watch collecting. Their lots, eye-popping results and personalities are followed feverishly by watch media and enthusiasts. But how much do we really know about these seemingly august, vaunted and shadowy institutions? How exactly do auction houses work? And what are the implications for the watch community?
And today, we have the perfect guest to s
Rolex Shutters Carl F. Bucherer Brand – A Sign of Industry Consolidation? – Episode 32
On February 7, 2025, Swiss media outlet Bilanz reported that Rolex is shutting down the Carl F. Bucherer watch brand, which it acquired in 2023 as part of its purchase of Bucherer – the global watch retailer. The decision to shutter any watch brand, particularly one dating back to 1888 with significant in-house watchmaking is major news. And it’s a story with broader implications for the watch ind
The Business & Ethics of Homage Watches – Marc Frankel (Long Island Watch) – Episode 31
Homages, replicas and clones, oh my! Today we’re digging into the business and ethics of what’s a perennial and now growing segment of the watch market. This is a complex topic, with important distinctions to be drawn between homages and replicas, clones or dupes. And more broadly, it’s one that sheds important light on technology and production gains across the industry globally.
Fortunately, we
Has Luxury Pricing Gone Too Far? – Katharine K. Zarrella (Fashion Writer, Editor & Critic) – Episode 30
On this episode of the Openwork podcast, we look at luxury pricing. Of course, we’ve already done a deep dive on how watches are priced. (Check out our episode with Mike Margolis of Czapek and Singer Reimagined for that.) However, in the past, we’ve largely focused on how inputs like cost of labor, materials, inflation and currency exchange impact pricing. But there’s of course more that goes into
2025 Watch Industry Preview – A Comeback Year for Watches? – Episode 29
It's that time of year: Predictions. On this episode we look at the year ahead, and make three calls each about the future of the watch industry. We discuss brand and retailer consolidation, market performance, business models for watch media, as well as enthusiast sentiment. We also take a look back at our 2024 predictions, and grade ourselves on their accuracy.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Re
Market Wrap: The Watch Industry in 2024 – Hamza Masood (WatchCharts) – Episode 28
On this episode we look back on the business of watches in 2024. In particular, we discuss where the watch market is as we close out the year. Is it growing, stalling, or as some would claim in retreat? To help us break it all down, we’re joined by returning guest Hamza Masood of WatchCharts – the world's most comprehensive, transparent and trusted source of watch market data. It’s a service we at
How Watch Design Works – Marco Borraccino (Singer Reimagined) – Episode 27
Today we’re going behind the scenes of watch design with Marco Borraccino the co-founder, CEO and Creative Director of Singer Reimagined. In addition to starting one of the most design-driven watch brands, Marco was previously the Head of Design at Panerai. He’s got a deep educational and career background in design, both within the watch industry and beyond. And he’s among the most talented and d
Behind the Zenith DEFY Skyline C.X (Special Episode) – Romain Marietta (Zenith) – Episode 26
Today we have a bonus episode of our podcast. It’s a discussion with Romain Marietta, the Chief Product Officer at Zenith. We sat down recently in Geneva to discuss not only our latest collaboration – the Zenith DEFY Skyline C.X – but also how he and Zenith approach product development more broadly.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside th
Inside M.A.D.Editions – Maximilian Büsser (MB&F) – Episode 25
On this episode of Openwork, we explore the business of both MB&F and Max’s most recent horological project: M.A.D.Editions. While both represent wildly creative watches, they have fundamentally different business models, with MB&F producing under 200 pieces a year at prices mostly over $100K USD and M.A.D.Editions producing thousands of watches a year at under $5K USD.
Hosted by Asher Rap
Inside the GPHG – How the "Oscars of Watchmaking" Really Works – Episode 24
For years, we’ve followed the GPHG – the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève – with great excitement and interest as it’s essentially the Oscars of Watches. And with this year's award ceremony taking place November 13, we figured it would be helpful to lift the veil on what goes on behind the scenes. Who are the people who nominate these watches, and what does voting look like? Does the GPHG meaning
New York Watch Week? – Plus Building URWERK and Brew with Martin Frei and Jonathan Ferrer – Episode 23
On this episode, we share an industry perspective on what’s quickly becoming something of a New York Watch Week – comprising the Windup Watch Fair, WatchTime and more. Additionally, we’re going to share a special live podcast recording from the Windup Watch Fair – a joint episode between us and the Worn & Wound Podcast. It’s a conversation with Martin Frei of URWERK and Jonathan Ferrer of Brew
Watch Production in China – Wesley Kwok (Nodus) – Episode 22
On this episode, we take a look at a topic that we’ve been curious about for a long time. We have discussed, both with members of the industry and amongst ourselves, the realities of production here in the United States, Japan, Switzerland and to a lesser degree Germany. But to date, we haven’t discussed one of the largest centers of watch manufacturing in the world: China. From full watches to co
Watches of Switzerland Acquires Hodinkee (Special Episode) – Episode 21
Today (October 4, 2024) marks a major shift in the watch industry. Hodinkee, the leading voice in modern watch media, has been fully acquired by Watches of Switzerland, a massive UK based retailer with operations around the world including in the US.
Only a few months ago, Ben Clymer, founder of Hodinkee – and as of today, a President at Watches of Switzerland – announced that the publication was
How to Value Watch Movements – Inside the Movement Industry – Episode 20
We discuss the current landscape of movement suppliers and how it came to be. We cover how movements are selected by watchmakers, along with the drama that often surrounds the ever-popular “in house” vs “mass produced” discussion. We offer some thoughts on how, why or if movement design, finishing and construction should figure into a purchasing decision.
Correction: On this podcast, we claimed th
Listener Survey Results – What You Told Us about the Current State and Future of the Watch Industry – Episode 19
Earlier this summer, we asked you – our listeners – to participate in a short survey in order to hear your perspective on the current state and future of the watch industry. The responses poured in, and on today's episode, we delve into what you shared. A massive thanks to those who responded. Your responses were incredibly thoughtful, helpful, and surprising.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reill
Geneva Watch Days: Stakes Are High – How the Event and Watch Industry Are Evolving – Episode 18
Live from Geneva Watch Days, we discuss how the show has evolved from a collector focus to a major industry event, along with the consequences of those changes. And we cover some of the week's high drama, including how and why we were kicked out of the Beau Rivage hotel. Things are getting real here in Geneva – stakes are high.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horo
No Bottom in Sight: State of the Pre-owned Watch Market – Hamza Masood (Watch Charts) – Episode 17
We take a deep dive into the current state of the secondary (pre-owned) watch market with our friend Hamza Masood of WatchCharts – the world's most comprehensive, transparent and trusted source of watch market data. It’s a service we at Collective subscribe to for its valuable insight not just into the pre-owned watch market but what that data can tell us about the watch industry at large. And tha
Epic Battle: Mono vs. Multi-brand Retail – Current State and Future of Watch Retail – Episode 16
We look at the shifting landscape of watch retail – specifically the rise of single-brand boutiques, the trade-offs of those changes, and what the future looks like.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, co-founders of Collective Horology, Openwork goes inside the watch industry.
You can find us online at collectivehorology.com. To get in touch with suggestions, feedback or questions, email podc
Hodinkee Shutters Retail Business (Special Episode) – What It Means for Hodinkee and the Watch Industry – Episode 15
On this special episode of Openwork, we discuss Hodinkee’s recent announcement that they’re shutting down their retail business – with the exception of limited editions – to refocus on editorial. This is big news that touched off an immediate and widespread response within the watch community. It also has significant implications for the watch industry at large, reshaping Hodinkee’s role within it
Is the Watch Industry Dying? – Tony Traina (Hodinkee) – Episode 14
Our conversation with Tony Traina of Hodinkee takes a look at the current health of and sentiment toward the watch industry. We look at how brands, retailers and watch media contribute to the current state of the industry, and what they can do to improve things.
Links:
Rescapement
Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry – monthly export data
Watches of Switzerland – quarterly earnings and annual re
Navigating the Swiss Watch Industry as an Outsider – Aren Bazerkanian (Founder, Havid Nagan) – Episode 13
This episode is a very frank and unfiltered conversation with Aren Bazerkanian, founder of Havid Nagan – the upstart independent brand that took the watch world by storm in 2022 with its debut watch the HN00.
We recorded this conversation in January of this year at a time when Aren was navigating challenges with Swiss watch production. In particular, one of his key suppliers experienced a leadersh
How We Make Collaborative Watches – Behind the New Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops Edition – Episode 12
Probably the question we’re asked most is how we design and develop our collaborative watches – how we identify brands, how the creative process works, and how we make decisions along the way on everything from design to finishing. So on this episode, we’re going behind the scenes on the making of our latest collaboration: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 Night Ops.
Hosted by Asher Rapkin
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