Chemist Confessions
Chemist Confessions is a weekly skincare science podcast hosted by skincare chemists Gloria and Victoria. Each episode discusses notable skincare news, decodes exaggerated marketing claims, and helps listeners navigate overwhelming product options. They also answer listener questions about building routines and finding effective serums. The show mixes practical skincare advice with humor about the stranger trends in the industry.
Episodes
#191) Decoding Peptides with DECIEM's Rita Silva: What Does the Science Say?
In this special episode, we're joined by Rita Silva, Acting Director of Scientific Communications at DECIEM, for a deep dive into the science behind The Ordinary's popular peptide serums. From Multi-Peptide and Matrixyl to Argireline and the latest plant-derived growth factors, we're getting into the formulation history, clinical research, and what these products can realistically do for your skin
#190) Chemists Test 7 CE Ferulic Dupes vs. the Original
PLEASE NOTE: In this episode, the original Skinceuticals CE Ferulic formula with only 15% ascorbic acid, 1% tocopherol, and 0.5% ferulic acid was tested for this episode. We dive into part two of our vitamin C series by putting popular C E Ferulic dupes to the test. Before revealing our side-by-side stability results, we go through a very helpful study from Slovenia examining 41 finished vitamin C
#189) Is the updated CE Ferulic worth the $$$$?
We dive into a science-heavy breakdown of vitamin C formulations, focusing on the recent updates to the gold-standard C E Ferulic serum. We explore the history of L-ascorbic acid efficacy studies dating back to the 1990s by Dr. Pinnell’s lab, highlighting the classic UV-induced erythema protocol used to validate antioxidant skin protection. Then, we analyze emerging clinical data around new CE Fer
#188) We sat down with founder of Soko Glam: Charlotte Cho!
Check out Soko Glam: Check out our products: https://sokoglam.com/collections/chemist-confessions?_pos=1&_psq=chemist+confessions&_psid=080163648&_ss=e
In celebrating our arrival on Soko Glam, we sat down with founder Charlotte Cho to dive deep into the real science, mechanics, and formulation realities behind K-Beauty. We break down the evolution of multi-step routines, the truths b
#187) Decoding Dr. Reju-All's PDRN & Copper Peptide #ad
#sponsored We’re taking a deep dive into the science behind K-Beauty brand Dr. Reju-All!
In this sponsored episode, we've partnered with Dr. Reju-All, to share some of their testing behind the products: the Advanced PDRN Rejuvenating Cream and their latest launch, the Advanced PDRN Copper Peptide Serum. We discuss their PDRN ingredient sourcing and why higher concentrations aren't always better—
#186) 5 Copper Peptide Serums Tested
We’re cutting through the marketing fluff to decode five popular copper peptide serums! In this episode, we analyze the formulas, active ingredient combinations, and clinical data behind products from the Remedy, COSRX, Dr. Reju-All, The Ordinary, and Peach & Lily. We break down what these serums intend to treat, highlight potential formula overlap (like sneaky niacinamide and bakuchiol), and
#185) Are Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu) OVERRATED?
🧪 Is GHK-Cu Overrated? The Science of Copper Peptides Explained Are Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu) actual anti-aging powerhouses, or just smart marketing hype?
In this video, we dive deep into the 50-year scientific history of GHK-Cu, breaking down the exact biological pathways behind collagen and elastin synthesis. We analyze the physiological realities of peptide size, molecular weight, and the famo
#184) Are You Applying Enough Sunscreen correctly?
Description: We are tackling our top 10 sunscreen takeaways after four straight years of testing dozens of formulas in our 3430 series! From figuring out how much SPF you actually need to apply (and why we rating-split over the infamous Rich Area Hold Cream), we get into all the messy details. We also dive into eye-area stinging, why US mineral sunscreens hit differently, layering under makeup, ha
#183) Testing 30 sunscreens in 30 days: US CHEMICAL SUNCREENS | Chemist Confessions Podcast
WE ARE BACK! Our 30 for 30 sunscreen challenge continues by diving into the wild world of US chemical sunscreens! In this episode, we break down 13 different formulas—categorized by price point from budget-friendly drugstore finds to eye-watering luxury formulas.
TIMESTAMPS:
00:31 | US Chemical Sunscreens Overview
01:30 | Economical & Drugstore Sunscreens
05:11 | Neutrogena Sport Face SPF Re
#182) PART 2! 30 SUNSCREENS IN 30 DAYS! - EU and Asia
We are wrapping up the next leg of our #30for30 sunscreen challenge testing roundup! In this episode, we dive deep into the world of international sunscreens, putting five popular EU formulas and eight Asian sunscreens to the test. Plus, don't miss a hilarious, science-backed detour into the sophisticated culinary habits of cockatoos!
Products Mentioned:
• Avene Anti-Pigmentation Tinted Fluid htt
#181) WE TESTED 30 SUNSCREENS IN 30 DAYS! P1 - US Sunscreen
The #30for30 Sunscreen Challenge is back, and we are officially kicking off our deep dive! In this episode, we’re breaking down the US mineral sunscreens we put to the test. From "accidental" foundations and heavy-duty rub-ins to luxury formulas that claim to erase wrinkles, we’re giving you the unfiltered truth on what’s worth your cash and what you should pass on. Grab your SPF, and let's get in
#180) What to look for in a sunscreen?
Sunscreen database: https://chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen
Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294
Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions
Instead of getting bogged down by marketing fluff, we dive deep into the real metrics of sunscreen performance: initial application speed, the science behind "watery br
#179) EWG & Yuka App Debunked!
Sunscreen database: https://chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen
Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294
Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions
We are deep in sunscreen season, but unfortunately, it is also fear-mongering season. In this episode, we take a scientific look at prominent clean beauty advocacy voice
#178) 5 More Tinted SPFs Tested in 2026
Sunscreen database: https://chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen
Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294
Shop more of my favorite products here: https://shopmy.us/chemistconfessions
We are starting of this series with tinted sunscreens. Navigating this category can feel like an existential crisis because these formulas are highly dependent on speci
#177) We must talk about IRON OXIDES!
We are officially diving into the sunscreen segment to break down a burning, highly technical question for anyone tackling stubborn dark spots: is iron oxide a non-negotiable must-have for your hyperpigmentation routine?
Sunscreen database: https://chemistconfessions.com/sunscreen
Shop other products tested on the CC podcast here: https://shopmy.us/collections/4698294
Shop more of my favorite
#176) We tested these lineup of viral PDRN products!
We are reviewing five popular K-Beauty products to see if they actually live up to the hype. We break down the science behind different PDRN sources, explore the "50 peptides" marketing claims, and analyze clinical data to separate realistic skin improvements from clever lighting tricks. You will learn how these products perform on different skin types—from "sticky and drying" textures to clinical
#175) Reviewing 2 Exosome Products!
We take an objective look at two polar opposite formulas—a $20 "junior" product and a $250 luxury serum—to see if the high science matches the high price tag. We break down the mysteries of sourcing, discuss why your 1% active might not be what it seems, and share our honest (and sometimes smelly) trial experiences. Whether you’re looking for genuine rejuvenation or just want to avoid lighting $50
#174) PDRN Skincare: Longevity Cure or Just Hype?
Chemist Confessions Minis! https://chemistconfessions.com/shop/kits&minis
We're pickup where we left off with another science update episode! Today, we're diving into another buzzy ingredient in the "longevity" space: PDRN. In this episode, we go beyond the "salmon sperm" headlines to investigate the latest science update on plant-derived PDRN from peony & rose, discuss the potential impa
#173) How About Exosomes in Skincare Now? (A 2026 Update)
Exosome is that $500 buzzword that's not going anywhere anytime soon. The claims have only gotten broader from healing, skin regeneration, eczema, anti-aging, to even alopecia. In this episode, we provide an update on any new data since our last deep dive last year. We discuss how these tiny lipid nanovesicles—ranging from 30 to 200 nanometers—function as "biological mail" that triggers collagen s
#172) THEY CLAIM THIS WILL WORK! Reviewing Retinal products!
In this episode, we are diving deep into the retinal (retinaldehyde) landscape to see how current market offerings stack up. Following our technical breakdown of retinol versus retinal, we shift our focus to real-world testing of popular formulations from Krave Beauty, Prequel, Celimax, and Medik8. We examine the scientific validity of concentration ranges—from the entry-level 0.05% to the more in
#171) We have to talk about this again: RETINOL VS RETINAL
We are diving back into the "rumor mill" of the retinoid world! Is Retinal actually better than Retinol, or is it just better marketing?
In this episode, we revisit the Retinol vs. Retinal debate with new 2026 data. We break down what the evidence says about the retinoid conversion pathway into retinoic acid. We look at the latest clinical evidence to help you decide if it’s time to switch your an
#170) WE ARE ENDING THIS! Hyperpigmentation Finale!
We are taking a break from hyperpigmentation actives! In this finale, we tie together months of research to help you build the ultimate hyperpigmentation skincare routine.
We rank the actives from our last 10 episodes—including Hydroquinone, Azelaic acid, Arbutin, Glutathione, Thiamodol, Symwhite, etc. —from S-Tier (Gold Standard) to Tier “Meh.” We also filter through the 18 products we tested dow
#169) Reviewing Resorcinol stuff!
CHECK OUT DOUBLE PLAY!: https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment
We follow up our deep dive into resorcinols by featuring five specific products that highlight these key ingredients for hyperpigmentation!
Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodst
#168) Resorcinol Part 2!
CHECK OUT DOUBLE PLAY!: https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment
We are wrapping up our hyperpigmentation series by diving into the science of resorcinol and its various derivatives. We explore the history of this "ancient" molecule, its uses in treatments like designer peels and acne prescriptions, and why the industry has shifted toward modern derivatives to
#167) Resorcinol! (But really its cousins)
CHECK OUT DOUBLE PLAY!: https://chemistconfessions.com/products/double-play-retinol-face-eye-treatment
We are wrapping up our hyperpigmentation series by diving into the science of resorcinol and its various derivatives. We explore the history of this "ancient" molecule, its uses in treatments like designer peels and acne prescriptions, and why the industry has shifted toward modern derivatives to
#166) Reviewing 5 Glutathione Products!
We are back for a follow-up to our glutathione deep dive! We review five specific glutathione-heavy products, four from the K-beauty world and one popular Amazon find, to see if they truly deliver on their antioxidant and brightening claims.
00:00 | Intro: Hashtags & antioxidant claims
00:24 | Welcome back to Chemist Confessions Podcast
00:30 | Glutathione deep dive follow-up
00:56 | Product l
#165: We are finally talking about this ingredient: GLUTATHIONE!
WE HEARD YOU! We explore the science behind one of the most requested and hyped ingredients skincare sector: glutathione. We break down what this "master antioxidant" actually is.
01:25 | What is Glutathione? Breaking down the tri-peptide
01:54 | Why is it called the "Master Antioxidant"?
02:43 | Mechanisms: Tyrosinase inhibition and skin whitening
03:16 | The Stability Struggle: Why pH and tem
#164) The Drugstore Level Alpha Arbutin Landscape
We explore the science of skincare as we review five affordable, drugstore-priced arbutin products. In this episode, we break down everything from texture and clinical claims and ingredient lists of popular brands to help you find the right formula for your skin.
TIMESTAMPS:
01:27 | Texture Analysis: Why is Arbutin so Sticky?
03:01 | Texture Face-Off: Oily vs. Dry Skin Reactions
04:48 | Is the Be
#163 ) The Science of Arbutin: Does It Actually Clear Dark Spots?
We are diving deep into the science of skincare to explore the role of Arbutin in treating hyperpigmentation. In this human conversation, we break down what exactly Arbutin is, analyze the existing data on its efficacy, and provide a comprehensive guide on what you should consider when shopping for these products.
Product Shoutout: Double Play Retinol Face and Eye Treatment:
https://chemistcon
#162 ) Testing 3 Popular K-Beauty Azelaic Acid Serums
In this episode, we take a deep dive into the world of K-beauty azelaic acid products. We explore the science behind three popular contenders—Anua, Purito, and medicube—while decoding their ingredient lists, analyzing clinical testing data, and discussing the tricky chemistry of azelaic acid solubility. We provide a chemist’s perspective on how to choose the right formula for your skincare routin
@161) Is Azelaic Acid Better Than Hydroquinone?
This week, we're starting our series on hyperpigmentation answering one of the most common questions many of us will encounter which is, "Is azelaic acid better than hydroquinone for my hyperpigmentation
00:00 | Introduction: 2026 Skincare Kickoff
03:45 | Investigating the PNAS Combination Study
08:12 | Deep Dive: Azelaic Acid vs. Hydroquinone
12:50 | The Challenge of Finding Full Research Papers
#160) We tested 103 products in 2025
The Chemist Confessions podcast year-end review is here!
We blitz through the 103 skincare products tested in 2025! We reveal our favorite and least favorite categories, discuss surprising finds like Hypochlorite Acid, and give our honest takes on individual products, including the Banana Boat Light as Air Sunscreen and the La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Sunscreen, and of course, Animal Corner!
Timestam
#159) Occlusive Balms Head-to-Head! | Chemist Confessions Podcast
We did a product head-to-head comparing occlusive balms, all with a petrolatum base! Following our beef tallow deep dive, we are breaking down the texture, transfer, price, and complex chemist notes of Vaseline, Aquaphor, CeraVe, Prequel, and our own Bon Voyage. Which formula is best for sensitive, compromised, dry, or oily skin, and why a simple formula isn't always best!
00:00 | Welcome to Chemi
#158) Why is BEEF TALLOW in skincare?
This week, we tackle one of the most requested ingredients: Beef Tallow in skincare. We break down the science, compare its characteristics to other popular ingredients like shea butter, and look at the actual topical studies (or lack thereof).
00:00 | What Is Beef Tallow and Why Is It in Skincare?
00:43 | Is Beef Tallow Really Similar to Human Skin Lipids?
02:09 | How Beef Tallow Is Made: The Sci
#157) Ceramides in products! | Chemist Confessions Podcast
We dive deep into the complicated science of ceramides (NP, AP, EOP) in your barrier creams, explaining the complex nomenclature and how different ceramide types function in the skin. We compare the ceramide blends found in 10 popular moisturizers and reveal the winning factors to look for when you're shopping: known percentages and clinical testing. Plus, we explore supporting ingredients like Me
#156) EAST VS WEST! 10 Barrier Creams Reviewed & Ranked!
We review 10 popular East and West barrier creams from Aestura, Dr. Jart, Dieux, Skinceuticals, La Roche Posay, and more. We break down everything from texture and finish for different skin types to occlusives like petrolatum and dimethicone, humectants like glycerin, and clinical claims. We also look at which creams are best for "suffering" vs. generally healthy skin
00:00 | 10 Barrier Creams: Ea
#155) Sulfur Skincare Product Review | Chemist Confessions Podcast
We put three 10% OTC sulfur products to the test! Kate Somerville, the Ordinary, Vichy, and De La Cruz Lab have four completely different takes on sulfur. The chemists discuss which product is the best to use as an acne spot treat!
Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514
P
#154) AD | A Deep Dive Into VT’s Reedle Skincare!
In paid partnership with VT! VT has given us insider access to the R&D behind their viral Reedle Skincare. In thanks to our community’s curiosity, they’ve decided to share the research behind their reedles, what makes them special, and all the testing they’ve done behind this product line. The chemists also share their experience and recommendation using this uniquely prickly but soothing? Kbe
#153) The Science Behind Sulfur for Acne & Skincare
We take a deep dive into the science behind Sulfur, a very old and historically prevalent ingredient for acne. We discuss its nonmetal clay origins and characteristic scent, often described as rotten eggs , or like "if a clay farted". The episode covers its classification as an OTC acne ingredient , its proposed catalytic and oil-absorbing mechanisms , and the challenges in its topical formulation
#152) MY SKIN IS ANGRY! Now what?
Everyone at some point in their lives will experience skin irritation. From overeager retinoid use to skin deciding to do a complete 180° just because. When skin is angry, troubleshooting your routine can start to feel stressful and overwhelming . The chemists review why skin reacts the way it does and best practices on how to appease unhappy skin and recalibrate back to your original healthy skin
#151) Hypochlorous Acid Sprays Tested: Tower 28, Prequel & Magic Molecule Review!
We put popular hypochlorous acid sprays to the test! Tower 28, Prequel, and Magic Molecule. Do they live up to the hype for acne, redness, and barrier support? Here’s the chemists’ breakdown.
Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.*
[https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514](https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514)
Rec
#150) Hypochlorous Acid Explained | Chemist Confessions Podcast
Hypochlorous acid is the trending skincare ingredient for acne, eczema, and irritated skin...... but does it really work?
Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514
#149) THD Products Texture Discussion | Chemist Confessions Podcast
From $20 drugstore finds to $185 luxury formulas, We break down Vitamin C skincare products, textures, and ingredient lists to help you choose what really works for hyperpigmentation, hydration, and beyond.
Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514
Product Shoutout:
Blank Slat
#148) Is THD Ascorbate a worthy Vitamin C derivative?
Is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (aka. THD ascorbate) a more stable, more exciting form of vitamin C, or just another quirky chemical cousin? We unpack the science, separate facts from marketing fluff, and reveal what this ingredient really does for your skin.
Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/
#147) Shopping for Sunscreens in 2025! | Chemist Confessions Podcast
It’s the last sunscreen episode of 2025 (we promise!). The chemists have been mulling over all of the recent sunscreen drama. Ultimately, they’ve decided that the most constructive way to address everyone’s concerns is to walk everyone through how to properly shop for sunscreens in 2025. In this guided tour of sunscreens, they will also address concerns on SPF boosters and even how to process the
#146) 100 Days of Double Cleansing
Victoria recently decided to commit to 100 days of double cleansing on her oily, acne-prone skin. In those 100 days, she tests 10 cleansing oils and 10 gel cleansers. They discuss their likes, dislikes, and surprise discoveries amongst these formulas. Ultimately, the chemists’ goal in this experiment is to answer the question, “Should you be double cleansing every day?” Additionally, they hope tha
#145) 5 Ethyl Ascorbic Acid Products Compared
In this episode, we put five popular vitamin C serums featuring 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid to the test: Beauty of Joseon Light on Serum, Elf C+E+Feruic Acid Serum, Olay Vitamin C Brightening Serum, Innisfree Green Tean Enzyme Vitamin C, and Numbuz:n 5+. This is a wild category of products. Unlike the CE Ferulic dupes, the range is far and wide in between! From texture critiques (why so sticky, Elf?)
#144) Is 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid a worthy vitamin C derivative
Is 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid truly a gentler, more stable form of vitamin C, or just a shiny chemical cousin? We unpack the science, separate facts from marketing fluff, and reveal what this ingredient really does for your skin.
Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514
Recommended
#143) 30 Sunscreens in 30 Days 2025 Pt.2!
In this extended 30 for 30 finale, we review 30 chemical sunscreens across drugstore, mid-tier, international, and luxury categories. breaking down textures, performance, pilling, greasy finishes, and even surprise standouts like Banana Boat Light as Air. Perfect for anyone struggling to find their next go-to SPF!
Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season
*a small portion of your purchase throug
#142) 30 for 30 Sunscreen Challenge 2025 Pt.1 - Minerals
We’re back for our third year of the 30 for 30 sunscreen challenge where we test 30 sunscreens in 30 days. In part 1, we discuss the mineral sunscreens. This category is divided into mineral fluids and mineral lotions. We rate them from worst, meh, noteworthy, and best based on their texture and finish. Overall, we’ve found this category to be much improved! Let’s dive into our mineral sunscreen j
#141) Can You Layer Foundation with Sunscreen? Chemists’ Sunscreen Application Tips
One of the top questions we get on sunscreen is - I want to layer foundation with my sunscreen is that okay? What does it mean for the level of sun protection I’m getting? That’s a pretty complex question and thankfully - we have some great studies and recommendations to share.
*a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist.
https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514
Pr
#140) 6 CE Ferulic Serum Dupes Put to the Test pt 2!
Ever since we did round 1 of our CE Ferulic dupe tests, round 2 has been highly requested. This time around, the ascorbic acid serum contenders are: La Roche Posay Pure 12% Vitamin C Serum, Wild Fleur 15% Pure Vitamin C + Xanthophyll - Marigold Brightening Serum, Cerave Vitamin C Serum, Geek & Gorgeous Vitamin C Face Serum, Prequel Lucent C, and Vichy 16% Pure Vitamin C Brightening Serum
We in
#139) Which Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) Serum is Better? Water or Anhydrous?
Vitamin C, ascorbic acid, is famously known as the only rigorously tested antioxidant for age prevention. Yet this active is also notoriously known for its quirky characteristics in the classic CE Ferulic serum format. This unstable hot dog water has often generated concerns for using it long term. In this episode, the chemists discuss ascorbic acid’s stability and compare vitamin C in water-based
#138) Sunscreen Update 2025 - Drama, Tariffs, and Some Science Share
It’s finally getting warmer and this means that we’ve already started testing our 2025 #30for30SunscreenChallenge tests! So this feels like a great time to do a special sunscreen news roundup episode. In this episode, we discuss why you can’t buy Asian sunscreen formulas as easily anymore, what tariffs might mean for the sunscreen landscape, and interesting studies on sunscreen application. Oh! An
#137: 5 KBeauty Cleansing Oils H2H
In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following our cleanser science episode, we tested 5 of the topselling Kbeauty cleansing oils so you don’t have to, which include: Skin1004, Beauty of Joseon, Anua, Ma:Nyo, and Haru Haru. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective.
#136: Can You Just Use Water to Cleanse Your Face?
On the topic of cleansers, a lot of the questions the chemists get are about the cleansing routine. One of the common questions is, “Can you just use water to cleanser your face?” The great thing is, this scenario has actually been tested (which is very rare). The chemists discuss the findings and what things to consider if you happen to be using just water to rinse your face. An unusual deep dive
#135: 4 Affordable Drugstore Moisturizers H2H
In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the ceramide deep dive, the chemists review 4 of the most popular drugstore moisturizers so you don’t have to, which include: Vanicream, CeraVe, Cetaphil, and La Roche Posay Lipikar. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective.
#134: Which Ceramide is the Best For Your Skin?
The chemists are going down the ceramides rabbit hole again because many of you have asked, “Which ceramide is best?” The chemists explain the different types of ceramides and what the research says on which one you should be targeting in your skincare.
#133: Prequel & Inkey's Ectoin Product H2H
In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the ectoin deep dive, the chemists review two ectoin products so you don’t have to. Products were chosen to showcase the diverse landscape of ectoin skicnare. This episode was recorded before the launch of Prequel’s latest Ectoin cream. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience fr
#132: Should you use ectoin in your routine?
Many of you asked about ectoin so the chemists went down the research rabbit hole. Ectoin is a new kid on the block with some surprising data in the skin barrier and hydration realm. The chemists talk about what it is, what it does for skin, and whether or not it’s better than niacinamide.
#131: 5 K-Beauty Toner Pads H2H
In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the pore care deep dive, the chemists review five toner pad products so you don’t have to. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective.
#130: Can You Shrink Pores with Skincare?
When strategizing how to tackle pores, the science is about as random as the skincare landscape. The chemists tackle the biology, the ingredients, and the skincare to try to make sense of what steps can actually make a meaningful difference to help reduce pore size. Can “glass”, “egg”, poreless skin actually achievable?
#129: Spicule Product H2H VT Reedle Shot 50 vs 100
In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the spicules deep dive, the chemists review the top two spicule (reedle) skincare products so you don’t have to. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspectives.
#128: Is spicules worth trying in skincare?
Continuing our journey of diving into exciting, trendy new ingredients, this week, the chemists take a closer look at all the science behind spicule skincare. Though these prickly bits derived from marine sponges definitely have some interesting data, we still have more questions on how to best use spicules… Let’s jump in the rabbit hole!
#127: PDRN Products H2H Decode - Medicube vs VT
In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the PDRN deep dive, the chemists review the top two PDRN skincare products so you don’t have to. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective.
#126: Should You Use PDRN Skincare?
One of the most popular requests for us to decode is PDRN. Kbeauty continues to be at the center of trendy and exotic “new” skincare. This week, the chemists’ dive into PDRN, fragmented DNA derived from salmon sperm? They discuss what it is, how it ended up in our skincare, and if there’s any substantial evidence of PDRN’s benefits for skin. Let’s go down the rabbit hole!
#125: How to Decode Your Skincare Like a Chemist?
We’re kicking off the 2025 podcast season with a twist. With all of our new listeners and viewers, it’s time to brush up on the fundamentals of who exactly the chemists are, how we analyze the science, and just what sort of decoding you can do to assess your skincare like an expert! Think of this as a primer into all the deep dives we’ll be getting into and an episode dedicated to getting to know
#124: The Best Skin Science Moments of 2024
It’s the last episode of 2024! Reflecting back on the year, we’re discussing top skincare science and animal fun facts. We also share our plans for the new year. The podcast has truly built an incredible community and we are so grateful to you all. Happy Holidays and we'll see you in 2025.
#123: Estriol & Estradiol Skincare - Do They Work?
As a follow-up on last week’s episode on skincare for certain age groups, this week, let’s dive into estrogen-based skincare, in particular creams with estradiol or estriol. This prescription skincare realm aimed to treat peri and post-menopausal skin issues like irritation, redness, and dryness. So! Do they work? Are there other benefits beyond skin barrier care?
#122: Skincare Tips by Age Group: Teens, 20s, 30s, 40s, and 50+
We all know that skin changes with father time, but how should you best skincare for your specific age? We discuss the science, what major timepoints to consider and what skincare you should be using in your teens, 20s, 30-40s, and 50s+.
#121: Neck care! Can topical neck creams help with … well.. anything?
Neck aging can be so difficult to address because of its complex biology. But can topicals do anything to help? Let’s take a closer look at 3 neck cream clincals done by Replenix, Skinceuticals, and Revision skincare to see if you really need a dedicated product just for your neck area.
#120: Skincare Holiday Gifting Guide
The holiday season is just looming around the corner. So whether you’re taking advantage of the discounts for yourself, or on the market for loved ones, here are some of thoughts on on the beauty holiday deals. Join us for some shopping inspirations or just some laughs!
#119: Which SPF Lip Balm is Best?
After a nice break from sunscreens, we had some time to dabble in lip SPF products. It turns out our lip skin actually has a lot less natural protection from both sun and dryness than the rest of our body. Thus, it only makes sense that having a good lip SPF (or two) is important to have handy. We tried 12 lip SPFS of various types and various price points and share all of our findings! The taste
#118: Are Peptides in Skincare Worth It?
Today we’re going to attempt to tackle the vast landscape of peptides! It’s a big topic but sadly without a lot of clarity. So let’s nerd out with us on just what peptides are, how they work on skin, what skin concerns they’re good for, and decode a few top peptide products.
#117: Hydroquinone and Some Comparison Actives
After listening to this podcast long enough, you’ll probably get a sense that good testing data is sparse so we inevitably have to work with what we have! With the recent US ban of OTC hydroquinone products, it's worth noting that a notable few actives have done testing in direct comparison to hydroquinone. Though more testing is always needed, direct comparison studies are considered rare and top
#116: Is Arbutin A Good Hydroquinone Alternative?
This is a bit overdue! Arbutin is a hyperpigmentation active with a reputation as a hydroquinone alternative. So today we’re tackling all the major questions around arbutin: Does it convert to hydroquinone on skin? Is it even a good hyperpigmentation active?
#115: Can You Actually Treat Dark Circles With Skincare?
It’s time for another wet blanket type episode - dark circles Just why are dark circles so hard to deal with? Do eye creams even work? We go through the data and discuss what you can actually do to treat this stubborn and complex skin concern.
#114: What's the Deal With Exosomes in Skincare?
We’ve put it off for long enough, today we’re jumping into the very new, very hot realm of exosomes. These vesicle structures are getting a lot of attention because they’ve been tied to: stem cells, growth factors, fibroblasts…essentially all the juicy anti-aging good stuff. In this episode, the chemists attempt to make sense of exosomes’ true purpose in skincare, share what benefits they can brin
#113: Do Acne Patches Work?
We're wrapping up our acne series with a deep dive on acne patches. These face stickers often get tied to some pretty enticing claims like absorbing excess sebum and rapidly healing pimples. We discuss the science behind these mystical patches, what they actually do to acne lesions, and what are their real benefits. Finally, we end on our experiences trying 5 different acne patches on the market.
#112: Does Any of the Plant Stuff Work for Acne?
Continuing our acne series, we’ve been able to delve into some solid actives with pretty juicy data behind it, but there are quite a few less validated ingredients that are pretty popular and worth a look. In this episode, we look at succinic acid, mugwort, witch hazel, and tea tree oil. Four popular plant-ish actives that have gained some traction as magical home remedies for acne breakouts. Let’
