That's Not Real Climbing
A glimpse into everything behind the world of competition climbing. Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport.
Episodes
Ardch Intrachupongse - Thailand Climbing EXPOSED
Ardch is a boulderer for the Thailand team, and he has made semis several times in World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll hear why he thinks climbing is performative in Thailand, why it’s hard to grow climbing as a spectator sport, and we’ll talk about where we draw the line on setting that is too trendy. Hope you’re ready for some hot takes and strong opinions in this one!Guest links:Lucka's Inst
Bharath + Vishak - The UNIQUE Challenges of Team India
Bharath and Vishak are climbers from team India who now have experience at several world series events. In this episode, we’ll hear about the unique challenges they face climbing and training in India, some crazy stories about the worst bouldering nationals ever, why they think the average age for comp climbing will get older, and how they aim to grow climbing in India by routesetting and making c
Lučka Rakovec - Competing Post-Thyroid Cancer
Lučka is a lead climber from Slovenia who recently won bronze at the European championships and came back to the world climbing scene after undergoing cancer-removing surgery in 2025. In this episode, we’ll hear about how her cancer diagnosis affected her climbing, training, and mental health, we’ll learn about the Slovenian team, and we’ll put together a tier list for the worst things that can ha
Ella Fisher - No Fancy Training Facility? No Problem.
Ella is a lead climber on team USA who made her first world series finals earlier this year in Prague! In this episode, we’ll learn about how she climbs the same lead routes all year round to train in Arizona, why she doesn’t want to move to Salt Lake City despite that, how a simple vitamin deficiency wrecked her body for a whole year, and how she went from placing 40th in world cups to making sem
Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi - Indonesian Speed Climbing DOMINANCE
Robby is a speed climber from Indonesia who has already gotten 2 silver medals in the world series season this year! In this episode, we’ll learn about the climbing scene in Indonesia, speed climbing rituals and whether they’re actually helpful, we’ll hear this thoughts on the 4 lane and speed relay formats, and we’ll get insight into how he got so good at speed climbing after only training it con
Meagan + C Lad - SPONSORED belayers?!
Meagan Knecht and C Lad are both level 5 belayers in the USA who are also helping out with belay training videos for World Climbing. In this episode, we’ll debunk the myth that women can’t belay men or heavier climbers, we’ll learn about the problems with Assisted Braking Device (ABD)requirements in gyms, and of course, we'll talk about how to get into high level belaying and how they became SPONS
Max Ayrton - "Alternative" Climbing Moves Are SO In
Max is a World Climbing routesetter from Great Britain who most recently set for the bouldering world series in Bern 2026 and will be setting for Salt Lake in October as well. In this episode, we’ll learn about hold shaping, what happened when the Bern finals boulders got leaked early online, whether world cup routesetters can actually climb the boulders they set, and we’ll hear about his extremel
Samuel Richard - New School Climbers are LOCKED IN
Sam is an 18 year old French boulderer who just recently won bronze at the 2026 Madrid world climbing series. You may also know him as the youngest person to ever do v17. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the world of new school climbing, how regimented routines and being locked in could push climbing further than ever before, and how he may want to just give up climbing one day.Guest links:
Emil + Felix Abrahamsson - ANNOUNCING Fantasy Climbing League!
You likely know Emil from being one of the OG climbing Youtubers who has also competed in a few world cups for Sweden. With his brother, Felix, they have started a new Fantasy Climbing League platform! In this episode, we’ll learn about how the Fantasy Climbing League works, how they feel about sports gambling in climbing, who their top picks are for their teams, and their predictions for all thin
Sam Avezou - The SECRETS to French Climbing
Sam is a French boulder and lead climber who has medals from several world cups and competed alongside his sister, Zelia at the Paris Olympics! In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like growing up in a climbing family, tips for climbing as a short king, why he struggled in the 2025 season, and how he self-coaches.Guest links:Sam’s InstagramGuitar InstagramReference links:Thank you Mad
Jackie Hueftle - The MASTERMIND Behind PCL Routesetting
Jackie was the routesetting director at the Pro Climbing League (PCL) comp and is also the co-founder of Kilter! In this episode, we’ll learn more about the unique challenges that came with setting for PCL, why she thinks it’s important to have more women setting for women’s comps, and how YOU could maybe try climbing the same exact boulders set at PCL.Guest links:Kiter’s WebsiteJackie’s Instagram
Mickael Mawem - An HONEST talk about money in climbing
Mickael is a french boulderer and he is the bouldering world champ from Bern 2023. In this episode, we have an extremely honest conversation about how growing up poor motivated him to make money as a climber, why he stuck with climbing despite the lack of financial prospects, what his training looks like which includes warming up with 80 pull-ups, and of course, what happened during the Bern world
Mo Beck - UNRETIRING for the Paralympic Dreams
Mo is a paraclimber in the AU2 class, and she is trying to qualify for the 2028 Paralympics! She has been climbing for over 22 years and had actually retired from competing…until hearing about the Paralympics. In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like climbing with a stump, whether outdoor, indoor, or comp setting is most friendly to her impairment, we’ll talk about petty drama in the
Rachel Carr - No high-level FEMALE COACHES??
Rachel is a Team GB coach and also Erin McNeice’s personal coach! She started as an athlete and competed in youth worlds, but moved down the coaching path shortly after. In this episode, we’ll talk about performance anxiety as an athlete, the difficulties she faced being taken seriously as a young female coach, and we’ll get insight into team GB’s training as well as Erin’s insanely huge team of c
Emma Edwards - Prague Finals DISASTER!
Emma is a boulderer on Team GB. 2025 was her debut in the senior world cup circuit and she already made a world cup finals! However, if you don’t recognize her, it may be because that was Prague where her finals round got rained out. In this episode, we’ll go over ALL the mishaps that happened at Prague including an allergic reaction, and we’ll learn about her training schedule, team GB, the climb
Charlie Boscoe - Founding a BRAND NEW Bouldering Series
This is Charlie’s second time on the podcast and he’s back with a big announcement! For those who aren’t familiar, Charlie preceded Matt Groom as the IFSC/World Climbing commentator. This time, he’s back to talk about the brand new competition series, Pro Climbing League. In this episode, we’ll go over all the details of what a PCL competition will look like, the challenges they faced the past 5 y
Declan Osgood & Zoe Yi - Fukuoka TEAM Climbing Event TELL-ALL
Declan and Zoe just competed at the Fukuoka exhibition team event for team USA where they climbed in all 5 boulder and lead rounds! In this episode, we’ll learn about their unorthodox climbing training program here in San Diego, how team selection and strategy worked at Fukuoka, and whether there was added pressure climbing with a team and coach present.Guest links:Declan’s InstagramZoe’s Instagra
Hannes Van Duysen - Slab KING Feels Pressure
You may have heard of him as the slab master, but Hannes is a climber on Team Belgium who just recently got silver in boulder at Arco Rockmasters and also won a bronze in Innsbruck this past 2025 season! In this episode, we’ll go over his 2025 season, get his tips on slab climbing, and learn about how he tries to stay in the right mindset during stressful competitions.Guest links:Hannes’ Instagram
Andy McVittie - The Kids are Climbing TOO MUCH!
Andy is a climbing PT and this is his second time on the podcast. This time, he’s here with new research to talk about why youth climbers are maybe overdoing it with the climbing training, what early arthritis looks like, and the surprising dangers of outdoor climbing when it comes to competition climbers.Guest links:WebsiteInstagramReference links:Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! U
Ben Hanna - Self Medicating ADHD with Climbing
Ben is a climber on Team USA and hold shaper for Pusher holds! In this episode we’ll get some insight into the grades of world cup boulders, how depression, anxiety, and ADHD shapes his relationship with climbing, how he balances working as a routesetter with training, and get his thoughts on hold shaping.Guest links:Ben’s InstagramReference links:Seoul World Champs Boulder SemisThe Boss holdThank
Annie Sanders - EXCLUSIVE: 2025 IFSC Season Thoughts
Annie is a climber on Team USA and she had an amazing world cup season this year with 2 boulder golds and a lead gold and even more podiums! In this episode we’ll learn about what goes through her mind during her crazy beta breaks, what her training routine looks like, and how gym access really influences performance.Guest links:Annies’s InstagramAnnie’s Xiaohungshu (red book)Reference links:Women
Sagi Damti - German Coach DEBUNKS Olympics Rumors
Sagi has been the German team’s bouldering coach since 2022! In this episode, we’ll get insight into Team Germany’s training and challenges, hear why he thinks the losses hurt the coaches more than the competitors, we’ll get a story about his experience as a homeless person while in the US, and most importantly, we’ll DEBUNK his famous statement in the Magnus video that Olympic qualifiers will sti
Miguel Zevallos - FIX Your Comp Climbing INJURIES
Miguel is a climbing physical therapist who works closely with the Method youth climbing team in the US and recently worked his first youth nationals! In this episode, we’ll learn about the danger of growth plate injuries in youth climbing athletes, we’ll get a glimpse into youth ISO, we’ll rank 3 of the most dangerous comp moves we’ve seen so far, and we’ll hear about his own journey trying to ma
Pete Woods - The Sad FINANCIALS of Climbing
Pete is a commentator and MC who has commentated for several world cups and North American elite competitions. In this episode, we’ll learn about the art of MCing, times he’s gotten flamed online as a commentator, and we get a lot of insight into the financials of broadcast and climbing as a sport, including the best argument I’ve heard yet for why Eurosport is a good deal. It’s clear to me in thi
Nekaia + Sovarae Sanders - Comp Climbing SISTERHOOD
You probably recognize Nekaia from when she recently made her first boulder world cup finals in Curitiba and her sister Sovarae podiumed at her last USA youth boulder nationals. In this episode, we get a lot of insight into their sibling dynamic as comp climbers, we’ll hear about Nekaia’s experience in Curitiba and Sovarae’s experience going through mental battles at comps, and we’ll have some fun
Carl McNeice - Erin McNeice's BRUTAL HONESTY Approach to Training
If it’s not obvious, Carl is Erin McNeice’s dad and I’m so thrilled to get a parent perspective on the podcast. In this episode, we’ll learn about the family’s dedication and honest approach to building Erin’s climbing career, how much it cost to support the training and travel of an athlete, why he’s no longer allowed to watch her comps in person, and get adorable dad-anecdotes from the Olympics.
Ty Hardaway - The World's HIGHEST MILEAGE Belayer
Ty has done it all: He’s been competition belaying, judging, and coaching for over 10 years, and he started the belay programs at USA climbing and the IFSC. In this episode, we’ll learn about all things belaying, get behind the scenes insight, and hear about how the scene has changed since the Olympics came into play, leading to some toxic parents.Guest links:Ty’s InstagramReference links:Noah Mak
Antonin Pharel - Why IFSC Production SUCKS?!
Antonin is the graphics operator for the IFSC! In this episode, we’ll learn about why the IFSC chooses to use local production teams instead of their own production team and the difficulties that come with that, why graphics don’t show up sometimes, and we’ll hear about his thoughts on why the bouldering format is inherently broken for watching on TV.Guest links:Antonin’s InstagramReference links:
Ep 40: Erik Noya - How Politics KILLED Venezuela Climbing
Erik is an accomplished speed climber from Spain! In this episode, we’ll learn about how politics destroyed climbing in Venezuela, what it was like starting over with life and training in Spain, injuries in speed climbing, and we’ll get his thoughts on other speed climbing formats like relays and yearly route changes. Hear from speed climbing’s most positive athlete!Guest links:Erik’s InstagramRef
Ep 39: Shauna Coxsey - The TRUTH About Motherhood and Pro Climbing
So you all probably know who she is, but just in case you don’t, Shauna is a British climber, 2-time bouldering world cup season winner, Olympian, mom, and nowadays she’s still ticking off hard climbs outdoors. In this episode, we’ll learn about how not excited she was to compete in the Olympics, why she has an issue with the word “retirement,” and of course, the difficulty of managing climbing du
Ep 38: Chaz Misuraca - What it's like climbing BLIND
Chaz is a blind paraclimber from team Canada and is in the B3 category, meaning he has about 10% of his sight left. What’s crazy is that he didn’t start climbing until after he lost his vision! In this episode, we’ll learn about his rocky journey losing his vision at 32 years old and struggling with alcoholism, how to lead belay blind, and hear some surprising stories about run-ins with famous cli
Ep 37: Tijl Smitz - POLITICS in the IFSC
Tijl is currently the IFSC Europe president but he is now running for the president of IFSC with elections taking place in April. In this episode, we’ll learn about how IFSC politics works, hear about the changes he wants to make within the IFSC, and get his take on some hot topic issues like national federation quotas, RED-S testing, and the NEOM games.Guest links:Tijl’s InstagramReference links:
Ep 36: Gregor Vezonik - RETIRING From Comp Climbing
Gregor was a boulder & lead climber from team Slovenia but he recently retired a few months ago from competitions. In this episode, we’ll get insight into the powerful Slovenian team, how he made the decision to retire and all the planning around it, what it’s like climbing with Janja, and we get to hear him geek out about holds and hold shaping.Guest links:Gregor’s InstagramReference links:Gr
Ep 35: Anna Apel - PRESSURE and Expectations as a Young Climber
Anna is a boulder & lead climber from team Germany and one of the younger athletes I’ve interviewed so far as she still competed in youth world champs last year. In this episode, we’ll talk about the differences between the youth and senior circuit, the pressure of expectations after FLASHING all qualis boulders in Innsbruck, and we get some insight into team Germany.Guest links:Anna’s Instagr
Ep 34: Rodrigo Hanada - From CHUBBY to World Cup Climber?!
Rodrigo is a boulder & lead climber from team Brazil. He actually started climbing fairly recently in 2018, but since then has been a 2x south american cup winner and is working his way up the ranks on the world cup circuit! In this episode, we talk about what makes training and climbing in Brazil difficult, how he feels like a “weaker” climber due to starting out as a chubbier kid, and mindse
Ep 33: Niki & Jake - Routesetting + Hold HOT TAKES
Niklas Wiechmann and Jake Mason are routesetters from "Another Setting Podcast" but you may already be familiar with them because Niki was my FIRST ever podcast guest and you are probably familiar with Jake from the Bouldering Bobats. In this episode, we absolutely TRASH US gym hold selection and setting, they give their opinions on worldwide setting styles, comp formats, and moves to LEAVE BEHIND
Ep 32: Andy McVittie - Evolution of Climbing Injuries in Competition
Andy is a climbing PT from Process Physiotherapy. He has been climbing for over 30 years, has coached in the past, and over time has noticed climbing injuries change as the style of climbing has evolved in the competition scene. In this episode, we'll debunk some training and PT myths, talk about the differences between male and female climbers and the types of injuries they face, and we’ll hear a
Ep 31: Oceana Mackenzie - Shingles at the Olympics?!
"She goes by Oce" is a boulder and lead climber from Australia! She's had an amazing 2024 season with her first world cup boulder medal in Prague, and also recently competed in her 2nd Olympics. In this episode, we'll learn about how she battled THREE health issues while competing in the Paris olympics, how Paris compared to Tokyo, her training with team Switzerland and making lead climbing gains,
Ep 30: Tom Greenall - Ex-GB Head Coach Facing Public Backlash
Tom is team GB’s ex-head coach! He personally coached Shauna Coxsey into getting her Tokyo Olympic ticket and has worked with the rest of team GB up until he left the national team earlier this year in April. In this episode, we'll learn about why he’s banned from the USA, the strategy for getting Shauna to qualify for the Olympics, and the politics and public backlash he faced working in the circ
Ep 29: Sofya Yokoyama - How Puberty and Eating Changes Climbing
Sofya is a boulderer on team Switzerland and she’s part of the wave of OG climbing Youtubers! In this episode, she gives us a debrief on her last comp of the 2024 season in Prague, we get some insight into team Switzerland and their potential upcoming funding issues, and she opens up about her past struggles with disordered eating and how she overcame it.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted sc
Ep 28: Stanley & Zulazfar - The Pressure on IFSC Judges
Another double-guest episode! Stanley is an IFSC event delegate and judge chair, while Zul is officially a newly minted IFSC judge. In this episode, we’ll talk about how to become an IFSC judge, hear about their relationships and interactions with athletes and coaches, and we’ll hear some crazy stories about their judging experiences under pressure and cancelling events due to rain like in Keqiao.
Ep 27: Jesse Grupper - Competing at the Olympics Injured
Jesse is a boulder + lead climber (mostly lead climber) from the USA who is fresh from the Olympics! In this episode, he walks us through his entire Olympics experience, from training through his first ever finger injury, to balancing training with his engineering job, to meeting other athletes in the Olympic village.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patre
Ep 26: Olga Niemiec - Setting the Olympic Boulders
Olga is an official IFSC routesetter, and she recently came back from Paris, where she helped set the Olympic boulder rounds. In this episode, we'll learn about what it takes to become an IFSC setter, what it was like setting at the Olympics and trying to make the rounds fair, and how she balances setting, training, and traveling all while being a single mother.Join Patreon for a welcome gift, del
Ep 25: Allen Lactaoen - "Average" Climber to IFSC Athlete
I know Allen from our climbing training class in San Diego, but he is also a boulderer for a brand new IFSC federation, Team Guam. In this episode, we'll learn about what it’s like competing on the world cup circuit as an “average” climber who only started climbing at 23 years old and works a full time engineering job. We’ll also hear about what it’s like as a NEW competitor competing in Innsbruck
Ep 24: Madison Richardson - Competitiveness + Marrying a Teammate
Madison is a boulderer for Team Canada and you may have seen her Youtube videos with her husband Zach on their channel, Richardsons Climbing. In this episode, we'll learn about the issues the Canadian climbing team faces such as not having a head coach, her “lose” streak when it comes to Canadian nationals, Youtube and deleting social media, and we’ll get her take on getting married young and rela
Ep 23: Sebastian Depke - Getting Paraclimbing Into the Paralympics
Sebastian is a German paraclimber. He is also the chair of the paraclimbing commission, and he worked on filing the application to get climbing into the Paralympics for LA 2028, which only recently got approved! In this episode, we'll learn about his journey accepting that his disease would affect his body and climbing forever, what the process was like for getting climbing into the Paralympics, t
Ep 22: Noah Makaiwi - Hidden Heroes: Volunteer Belayers
Noah is the Assistant National Belay Coordinator of USA Climbing and has volunteer belayed at events nationally and internationally at IFSC youth worlds in 2022. In this episode, we'll learn about how to get into volunteer belaying, some interesting tidbits on belay devices and catching falls that you may not have thought about before, what the differences are belaying different paraclimbers, and
Ep 21: Ross Fulkerson - Mindset and Meditation Masterclass
Ross is a boulder and lead climber on Team USA and you may be familiar with his Youtube channel where he documents his climbing adventures and shares coaching tips. In this episode, we'll learn about his bikepacking adventure that he skipped the first half of the 2024 world cup season for, hear about his struggle trying to balance competitions with his desire to travel and all his other hobbies, t
Ep 20: Erin McNeice - Finding Sudden Success on the Senior Circuit
Erin is a boulder and lead climber from team GB who has been having a stellar 2024 season so far, making finals for boulder in Keqiao, lead in Wujiang, and getting bronze in Shanghai OQS! In this episode, we’ll get some insight into how she seemed to rise out of nowhere, her brutal off-season training, we’ll learn a bit about team GB, and stay for the end to hear about where the Erin McBeast nickn
Ep 19: Eddie Fowke - Tales from years on the IFSC circuit
Eddie is an ex-IFSC photographer, who worked with them from 2014-2020. In this episode, we’ll get his thoughts on the ethics and purpose of photojournalism, hear about the chaos behind the scenes traveling around for world cups, and discuss ideas on how to get athletes better paid.Guest links:InstagramReference links:Vail triangle poseMia Krampl Koper incidentLearn more about the podcast at www.th
Ep 18: Chloé Caulier - Belgian Bouldering and being a Muscular Climber!
Chloé is a boulder and lead climber competing in the world cup circuit for the Belgian team! This is my first time talking to a Belgian climber, so in this episode we’ll learn a lot about their fairly newly established national team and how funding works, and we also talk about body image with being a more muscular climber, as well as the difficulties that come with being a female climber.Guest li
Ep 17: Charlie Boscoe - Leaving IFSC Commentary
Charlie is a broadcaster and writer who preceded Matt Groom as an IFSC commentator and EpicTV host. In this episode, we’ll learn about his rough start to IFSC commentating in 2016, ways that he thinks the IFSC could improve competitions, and get some insight into what it’s like traveling around with athletes. He also shares his unique story about traveling to North Korea!Guest links:WebsiteReferen
Ep 16: Cloe Coscoy - Gym Climbing Rocks!
Cloe is a French/American boulderer who has competed for team USA in the international youth and elite circuit. In this episode, we’ll learn about how she “accidentally” ended up competing in lead world cups, the difficulties of trying to make it onto a highly competitive US national team, and we give some love to good old gym climbing and plastic pulling!Guest links:Cloe’s InstagramReference link
Ep 15: Tyler Norton - Commiserating on Climbing Podcasting
Tyler is a fellow competition climbing nerd and podcaster, who has been involved in the space much longer than I have, and you may be familiar with his channel, Plastic Weekly! In this episode, we’ll talk about what it’s like MCing at a world cup, commiserate on the hardships that come with climbing podcasting, go over some climbing HOT TAKES, and talk about the upcoming 2024 season!Guest links:Ty
Ep 14: Cody Grodzki - Reading Routesetter Hate Comments
Cody is the USA national chief routesetter, and in the 2023 IFSC season he had the opportunity to set boulders in Hachioji, Prague, Innsbruck, and the Bern world champs! In this episode, we’ll watch him read Youtube hate comments, and we’ll learn about the differences between IFSC vs USA vs commercial routesetting, as well as hear about a crazy cool gym that he will be opening up soon.Guest links:
Ep 13: Carlie LeBreton - Paraclimbing World Champs Setting
Carlie is the FIRST female chief setter at an IFSC world championship, where she led a team of 5 to set the world paraclimbing championships in Bern 2023! She has been climbing for over 20 years and setting for almost just as long, so she has a lot of experience. In this episode, we’ll learn about all the things you have to keep in mind when setting world championship routes for paraclimbers, what
Ep 12: Anita Aggarwal + Christiane Luttikhuizen - World Cup Paraclimbing
Anita Aggarwal and Christiane Luttikhuizen are paraclimbers who have competed in world cups as part of the RP3 sports class. RP3 is a classification for limited reach, power or stability. In this episode, we’ll learn about what it’s like climbing with a disability, the difficulties dealing with classification and class merging, whether or not the IFSC does a good job with accommodations, and the p
Ep 11: Staša Gejo - A look into isolation
Stasa is a boulder and lead climber (specializing in boulder) from Serbia who has been competing in international cups since 2011 as a youth climber. Most recently, she took the silver medal in the Laval European Qualifiers. In this episode, we’ll learn about Serbian funding in the sport and OQS, we’ll get a glimpse into what bouldering isolation is like, hear some tales from the commentary booth,
Ep 10: Sam Watson - USA's Future Speed Olympian
Sam is only 17 years old, yet he has already won gold at a world cup, holds the speed climbing record in the US, and recently secured his Paris 2024 Olympic ticket at the PanAm Qualifiers. In this episode, we’ll get more insight into speed climbing at the highest level, his experience at the PanAm Games, how he juggles personal life, school, and climbing, and we need your help in figuring out how
Ep 9: Campbell Harrison - Australian Boulder + Lead Olympic Dreams
Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Campbell represents team Australia and is one of the Oceania region’s top competitors for moving onto the Olympics in the boulder and lead combined category. He also recently got elected to the IFSC athlete’s commission, so in this episode we’ll talk about causes he’d like to champion through that, what it’s like competing as an Australian, and he also opens up
Ep 8: Matt Groom - World Cup Commentary Behind the Scenes
Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Matt Groom is a freelance commentator best known for being the lead commentator at IFSC world cups. You may also find him hosting EpicTV Climbing Daily, writing for UKC, or commentating at other climbing competitions. There's a lot of talk online about Matt, and in this EXCLUSIVE interview we go over his response to criticism as well as his explanation for some
Ep 7: Zoe Spriggins - Organizing Climbing World Cups
Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Zoe is a program manager for GB Climbing and is an expert in organizing and running climbing competitions! Her FIRST world cup event was Edinburgh 2022 and it was definitely…eventful. She also has experience organizing paraclimbing competitions and Bern world champs. There’s much more going on behind the scenes of climbing competitions than you’d expect, so tune
Ep 6: Allegra Maguire - The Psychology Behind Climbing Competitions
Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Allegra is a Youtuber, mental climbing coach, and co-founder of ClimbInFlow, which provides services for climbing mind training. She has experience coaching all types of climbers, from beginners to world cup youth athletes. She recently came home from coaching at the youth world champs in Korea, where she helped Geila Macia Martin podium in boulder and lead! All
Ep 5: Albert Ok - Finding Meaning in Coaching Speed Climbing
Thanks for tuning into the podcast! You may be familiar with Albert's old viral Youtube videos where he does deep-dive analyses into great comp climbing beta-break moments. Nowadays, he is spending more time working on his own training to hopefully make the USA national team, as well as working as a speed climbing coach (you're probably familiar with a lot of the speed athletes he works with!)Gues
Ep 4: Grace Crowley - Pro Speed Climbing as a Non-Binary Athlete
Thanks for tuning into the podcast! Grace is a speed climber on the Australian team who only started climbing in late 2015 and has been competing in world cups since 2019 at the age of 15 (only 4 years of climbing before becoming world level?!?!). Grace is also open about sharing their experience being a non-binary athlete within competitive sports.Guest links:https://instagram.com/gracecrowlyeRef
Ep 3: Jonathan Sin - Trying to Become a World Cup Climber
You may have seen a couple of Jonathan's viral Youtube videos lately, such as I trained like a pro climber for 6 months, where he opens up about his dream of becoming a professional competition climber and documents his journey of trying to make the Hong Kong national team. His effort is all the more impressive once you find out he only started climbing in 2019 and managed to send v11 after only 2
Ep 2: Maya Witters - Former world cup judge on IFSC Controversies
Maya is an outspoken IFSC volunteer + judge currently living in Japan who has helped out with world cups in Edinburgh, Morioka, and Hachioji. She has some great behind-the-scenes context into world cups, what team Japan is like behind the wall, and she has some spicy takes on the IFSC organization (even got blocked once by their social media)…Guest links:https://www.instagram.com/mayasoundsReferen
Ep 1: Niklas Wiechmann - What is REAL climbing? Setting for world cup level climbers
Thanks for tuning into the inaugural episode of the podcast! Niki is a routesetter with over 20 years of experience, setting for both commercial gyms and competitions. He’s known for setting “parkour-style” boulders that require creative movement rather than raw power. We’ll hear from him about what it’s like setting for world cup level climbers, how the IFSC chooses holds and setters, different c
Ep 0: Jinni, Podcast Gumby
A brief description of what to expect from the That's Not Real Climbing Podcast
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