Hairspring
Hairspring's founder Erik Gustafson and enthusiast Max Braun bring you a meandering weekly-ish roundtable on watches and many other things.
Episodes
Episode 101: Urban Jürgensen (From Jørgen to Rosenfield, but Mostly Pratt-Baumberger)
This is the story of Danish watchmaking’s most storied name, a deep-dive chronicle to help collectors understand the very nuanced and convoluted history of Urban Jürgensen. This includes relevant backstory on Urban himself, a deep dive on Baumberger, Pratt, and the watches they made together—plus a look at what’s happening today under the Rosenfields and Venla with Kari Voutilainen. This episode f
Episode 100: Lessons Learned & Q&A (Pt. 9)
Now 100 episodes in, this episode covers some reflections and lessons learned. This is all ahead of a full-sized Q&A with questions ranging from a two-watch 100k collection, time traveling to give yourself advice, market direction, non-indie brands carrying the torch for watchmaking, and many other topics. Plus, a fantastic Only Wrist for a linebacker.Links Mentioned:Total Unbiased FP Journe M
Episode 99: Unusual Vacheron Constantin (Venturing Beyond the Overseas and 222)
From things that came before the 2215 Chronometer to 43040s and repeaters, this episode covers all the quirky Vacheron Constantins that normally aren’t discussed—including a semantics argument of what is and isn’t a Cornes de Vache. If the more alternative side of VC has ever called to you, here is a broad overview of some areas that may be worth attention. Links Mentioned:Keith Mitchell TW:https:
Episode 98: Third-Generation Independents, an Introduction
Over the last five years, independent watchmaking has blossomed. This week, Erik & Max make an introduction to some names that have begun in recent years and are off to a promising start. Conversations include the basic framework and some thoughts on Clegeur, Pierre, Phimphrachanh, Birchall, Claeys, the Bernhards, Hazemann & Monnin, Lass, FaH, Mineroci, and even Bonniksen. Cleguer:https://
Episode 97: Our Unpopular Opinions
While prior episodes have covered your hot takes, this week’s discussion sees Erik & Max dive into a few controversial views of their own. From undisclosed ebauches in independent work today to silicon going widespread, or moonphase accuracy across to 6538s, there’s a lot to unpack here. University of Utah Hot on Journe?:https://shorturl.at/cSCXN6538 at Sotheby’s:https://www.sothebys.com/en/bu
Episode 96: Q&A (Pt. 8)
This month’s Q&A went all over the map. Erik & Max answer the Ferrari Luce equivalent from the Holy Trinity, market updates, if Cartier hype has passed, the one watch collection, and the greatest neo-vintage values today. Links Mentioned: Arkansas:https://crystalbridges.org6105G:https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/6105g-0015170:https://hairspring.com/products/chronograp
Episode 95: A. Langer One (Pt. 2, 2000-Present)
Part 2 of Episode 66 has finally come to pass. This episode chronicles the notable history of A. Lange & Söhne from acquisition by Richemont and Günter Blümlein’s passing in 2001 until the present. This episode targets key folks involved, notable successes and releases, stories/lore often told, and basics of leadership. We hope this episode brings some learning and a few fun facts along the wa
Episode 94: Dissecting an Auction Catalogue & Sports Betting
Erik & Max pick apart the three big sales happening this spring, to help give a framework for analyzing collectors' behavior, see what’s changing in the market, and have some fun. Then, the game is on as five lots are each picked with a bet value to be achieved estimated (this was recorded May 5) ahead of time—and an over/under from the opposing host. Plus, an Only Wrist for the 90s lovers
Episode 93: Winners & Blunders 2026
Watch & Wonders has come and past, but what of this year’s releases might be enduring? And what, if anything, was a complete mistake? This is the Winners & Blunders of 2026, where for every pick in the top and worst category, Erik & Max also include an alternate vintage pick to consider. Links Mentioned: Winners:Streamliner 34:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/h-moser-and-cie-introduce
Episode 92: Pub Trivia
Collectors love a good fun fact, unknown history, or unexpected trivia. This episode is full of all of that. From co-axial Nautilus and a Rolex QP to Houdini and Carl Jung, it’s all here. We guarantee, regardless of just how educated you are, there’ll be a fact in here you won’t have known prior. A huge thank you to all of you, the audience, for contributing to this knowledge base. Plus, and Only
Episode 91: Enamel 101
A longstanding craft which has graced some of the greatest wristwatches made, this episode studies the basics of enamel dials and their application in wristwatches. From historical roots until work being performed today, Erik & Max cover the main techniques of Grand Feu, Cloisonné, Champlevé, Flinqué, and engraved enamel. Nuanced, examples, techniques, and the background needed to begin conver
Episode 90: Kari Voutilainen
This week Erik & Max are thrilled to be joined by legend of independent watchmaking Kari Voutilainen. We explore the early days of branching out on his own, what makes him excited in watchmaking, the challenges of being independent, why big brands don’t innovate, and of course how things are going reviving Urban Jürgensen. It was an honor and delight to capture Mr. Voutilainen’s thoughts on wa
Episode 89: Retroactive Bidding Circa 2016
Erik & Max time travel to 2016 to attempt to spend various budgets this week. It’s retroactive bidding, with the best 10k, 50k, and 200k picks all included. From cloissoné Polerouters to Patek bracelets and 30k Resonance, this one was a blast. Plus and Only Wrist that’s relevant if you drive motorcycles for UberEats. It’s worth opening all the tabs linked for this exercise. Links Mentioned: ht
Episode 88: Audemars Piguet Beyond the Royal Oak
Erik & Max venture into the side of the AP back catalogue far too often forgotten and overlooked: non-RO vintage. From the Clover to the 1533 or Star Wheel Repeaters and restomod Cartier, the depth of value that exists in AP’s posterity is immense. If you’ve ever wondered what the first Tuscan ref is, who A l’Emeraude is, or what a Disco Volante has in common with today’s independents—listen i
Episode 87: Our Ultimate 3 Watch Collections
The title says it all here, with one twist. First, Erik & Max guess each other’s ideal 3 watch collections—a reverse grail collection built for each other. Then it’s the actual current 3-watch grail collection, no holds barred. Many watches are discussed, few make the grade. You all asked, many times, here we are. Plus, an Only Wrist for a Houston electrician. Links Mentioned: 404.032:https://
Episode 86: 3940 and Onwards, The Patek Philippe ‘Pure’ Perpetual Calendar Pt. 2
It is finally time to dissect and opine on the 3940. Erik & Max break down series with some nuances you may not expect. This includes hallmarks, Singer vs Stern dials, Series breakdown, and thoughts on what truly matters here. And that’s just the first half of the episode, with the second dedicated to covering the vast majority of all major references since and what to pay attention to. It’s t
Episode 85: Hot Takes & Resolutions
Are regulator dials ugly? Are Lange a credible threat to Patek’s repeaters? What’s the ideal Bond Villain watch? Why do so many watch professionals seem like they don’t even like watches? Erik & Max put out a call to you for your hot takes and controversial opinions. Some were lukewarm, but many were truly controversial and made for excellent discussion. If hot takes aren’t to your taste, this
Episode 84: A Year in Auctions, with a Market Update
The year of 2026 is upon us, but it’s worth pausing to look at some of the great and atrocious things which sold. This episode covers a state of the market through a review of the entire year at auctions, noting specific examples. Erik & Max discuss watches that they wish they’d had the funds to buy, opportunities missed, problem watches/things they’d stay away from, value buys, unreasonable r
Episode 83: The Balance Cocks of 2025
Yes, it’s year end. And the only awards show that anyone cares about is back in action. It’s the Balance Cocks second annual outing this week; this show will cover the most beautiful and ugliest watches of the year, the greatest new calibre, the strongest value, the watch which will lose you the most money after buying it, and far more. Then we have the big ones, our favorites and the ‘Absolute Co
Episode 82: Q&A (Pt. 7)
Erik & Max are back to answer your wide-ranging questions in the seventh installment of what is becoming a cornerstone of the podcast. Questions range from a new ‘holy trinity’ we’d select, what neo-vintage references collectors should be paying attention to yet aren’t, Langes on a budget, best Blümlein IWCs, our favored Cartier shapes, and far more. Links Mentioned:Hajime Asaoka:https://www.p
Episode 81: The Patek Philippe ‘Pure’ Perpetual Calendar (Beginnings until 3940)
A monumental occasion, this episode covers a complete chronology of the Patek Philippe ‘pure’ perpetual calendar. Arguably, the QP was the complication that built the Patek Philippe name more than any other through the mid-century. Yet, the main bloodline of QP has many nuances that aren’t often covered. This episode highlights all the main references you might expect and their significant points
Episode 80: Tom Segura
Master comedian and legendary podcaster Tom Segura joins Erik & Max for a hilarious conversation on his love of watches and collecting. Tom’s enthusiasm ranges from FP Journe to 6263 Daytona, with more than his fair share of AD experiences on tour. Today we ask who was the most obnoxious sales staff he’s encountered yet, where his love of Lange came from, views on collecting philosophy, and wh
Episode 79: 5 Watches from the Last 5 Years That Will Age Like Wine & 5 Watches from the Last 5 Years That Will Age Like Milk
This is a simple concept, but what’s recent that holds a fair shot of standing the test of time? And what are the absolute dogs that should be avoided? Both categories are addressed no holds barred, a fairly random smattering of watches that may be future classics, and just as many that, well, we’d best avoid. And yes, we’re probably wrong. Links Mentioned:Berneron:https://hairspring.com/collectio
Episode 78: The Second-Greatest Rolexes to Ever Auction
We all know Paul Newman’s Paul Newman, but what was the second most valuable watch at that auction? This week, Erik & Max ask that question, as well as investigating some of the other incredible Rolexes which have hammered that aren’t super-famous, but are super-intriguing. From nicknames like ‘The Sock’ to a Sub-Day-Date hybrid or false McQueen provenance, this week is all those small stories
Episode 77: An FP Journey (Beginnings Until Gold Movements, The Early Watches)
This is the story of how an unlikely ruffian from Marseille came to be regarded as the genius watchmaker of a generation. This week, Erik & Max tell the story of François-Paul Journe from expulsion to working with Asprey and sketching on napkins. While the story dominates two-thirds of the episode, the final third is dedicated to the watches themselves including a framework for how to separate
Episode 76: Q&A (Pt. 6)
Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from 2 watch modern Rolex collection picks, vintage value under 20K, roasting the 5159, figuring out the best QPs ever, the best watches ever sold that you never saw, how to manage databases, and valuing extremely rare watches. Plus and Only Wrist for a SEAL turned doctor. Links Mentioned:Modern 2 Watc
Episode 75: Collaborations Gone Wrong
This week, Erik X Max talk the worst collaborations in watches. While a unique idea in 2010, collaborations seem more common than a single brand’s own work these days. While some are brilliant, this episode is a discourse in where it can go wrong and where it’s heading. There are some you might not expect in here, as well as the obvious, all for their own uniquely unfortunate reasons. Plus, one of
Episode 74: James Blake
Accomplished singer, songwriter, and producer James Blake joins the podcast for truly legendary discussion of watches, music, their intersection, and a veritable feast of unrelated topics. Conversation includes the role of atrophy in attraction to vintage, what watches he’d gift various well-known musicians, how ‘perfect’ finishing may be too perfect today, the watch musician Dave gifted him, and
Episode 73: The Vintage Rolex Collector’s Glossary (WTF Is a Musketeer)
Have you ever what a Musketeer Dial is? Does Millerighe sound more like a sneeze than a pusher to you? What does PPDRSD stand for, are cherry Daytonas a real thing, and is PCG the same as Cornino? This and all the other terms you see frequently in vintage sports Rolex described as quickly as possible in this week’s episode. It’s that simple. Links Mentioned:https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/exclus
Episode 72: Henry Catchpole
This week is more automotive than most, as Erik & Max are joined by the esteemed automotive journalist Henry Catchpole. Henry is an immensely talented story-teller and also happens to adore watches. This episode spans Henry’s path as an enthusiast, a family Vacheron, Enicar, The Bugatti Tourbillon, if cars are having their own Quartz Crisis now, the car/watch enthusiast link, the 6541 motorspo
Episode 71: Forgotten Watches of the 2000s
What’s after neo-vintage yet before contemporary watches? Quite a lot as it turns out. Erik & Max set themselves the challenge of uncovering some of the great references that might go over looked, as they predate watch media as we know it. And it’s not all high-flying independents. Picks range from multiple examples under 10K (some under 5K, even) all the way to, yes, the crazy ones. Regardles
Episode 70: Building Independent vs Big Brand Collections (2 Watches for 200K)
Erik & Max build two-watch collections twice with a generous budget, once with independents and once with large brands. This, in order to help crystalize the strengths and weaknesses of each type of watch. Conversation ranges from the Dubail to the Vingt-8 with everything in-between. Plus, an Only Wrist for a gentleman running construction in Austin, looking for a watch to give his son. Links
Episode 69: Royal Oak, The Most Influential AP (The Story So Far)
Some will tell you that Audemars Piguet have become the Royal Oak company. But why is this sole model so damn successful? How did one watch come to invent and subsequently take over a market segment? What are the models worth paying attention to and how are collections structured? This is the story of the Royal Oak, from two years before the 5402’s release straight through to ceramics and RD#2. Li
Episode 68: Q&A (Pt. 5)
Erik & Max return to answer your queries in a a wide-ranging episode that hits on everything from guilty pleasures to asking if the independent space is too crowded. Plus, what is the best QP ever made? Why isn’t shaped Patek popular? What’s the next hot indie? This and much more, plus a great question from Max’s mom. Links Mentioned:Lange Error:https://youtu.be/HGlz937qkuw?si=y_-wOUQp2lH8SDtD
Episode 67: Tony Traina Vents & Builds Lifelong 20K + 200K Two-Watch Collections
The inimitable mastermind behind Unpolished returns to join Erik & Max; this episode is a wide-ranging discussion with Mr. Tony Traina himself. It covers three large segments of discussion. First, what’s been grinding Tony’s gears lately (and some of Erik’s as well). Then a collection-building exercise of two lifelong two-watch collections: one collection at 20K and one at 200K. Finally what a
Episode 66: A. Lange One (The Story of Rebirth 1994-2000)
This is the story of how Glashütte came to be, once again, the epicenter of German watchmaking. This week, Erik & Max do their best to debrief the 1994-2000 rise of A. Lange & Söhne, and particularly to tell the story of the ambitious, hard-working folks involved. This episode targets key moments in the manufacture's rise to success, central tenets to the brand’s identity, many quotes,
Episode 65: Crowd-Sourced Future Classics
In this qasi-Q&A format, we asked you for recommendations on watches that might be the future of collecting. Some replies were quite out there, some were unexpected, and many were rather great. This week, we give on thoughts on what you all are marking as the future classics. Links Mentioned:Berneron:https://www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/a-first-look-at-the-berneron-annualChris Ward: https://www
Episode 64: The Least Best Dials
Erik & Max are going for it now: what are the worst dials made (the ones we all should’ve loved but can’t)? This is not just a roast of Jacob & Co, but rather dials and concepts that had promise, only to fail in the execution. There’s no shortage of content here this week, apologies for the long run time. Also, what might be the greatest Only Wrist yet. Links Mentioned:A3630:https://www.fr
Episode 63: Will Anyone Ever Start to Collect These?
While independents, Daytonas, and PCCs return to new highs, Erik & Max turn their attention to unusual corners of watches that aren’t aggressively collected today. As long as they’re rare, well studied, interesting, and beautiful, they’re in the running this week. Plus a two-in-one Only Wrist. Links Mentioned:Questionable Cloche (last image):https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/214804Lange
Episode 62: Daytona, An Introduction
This episode covers all you need to know to begin speaking Daytona. No more needs to be said. Links Mentioned:Pre-Daytona:3346 Zerographe:https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080016/364113 Split:https://www.phillips.com/article/47875238/comparing-two-rolex-reference-4113-of-the-twelve-made-14537:https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/4537-rolex-chronograph5034: https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex
Episode 61: Winners & Blunders (and Alternatives)
It’s not just a Watches & Wonders retrospective this week, as Erik & Max attempt to also choose a superior vintage alternative in the same vein to each new release. There are roasts, reasonable critiques, and some unexpected loves in this year’s releases. This week’s episode covers the Land-Dweller, Calatrava, Lange Repeaters, and so much. Plus, Journe goes Geländewagen. Links Mentioned:NS
Episode 60: Contrarianisms
Chances are, you won’t agree with the ideas we’re discussing this week. And that’s the whole point. This week, Erik & Max ask, ‘What do you believe that almost no on else in watches seems to?” Discussion leads to the Fast & Furious, Triple Calendars, Dufour, Lange QPs, and Instagram. Plus, what should a very successful furniture maker wear? Links Mentioned:LUC XPS:https://www.hodinkee.com/
Episode 59: Faux Pas
There are small mistakes and then there is today’s topic: true faux pas. From interactions with other collectors to the way manufactures design their watches, this week is all about those social blunders. Obviously, this episode is mostly Erik & Max moaning and groaning, but there are one or two deeper points worth contemplating. In addition, the second topic at hand: if we were each to be mon
Episode 58: The Day-Date Download
This week is all about the Rolex that moved the brand from tool watches to luxury: the Day-Date. We cover the beginnings, chronology, famous wearers, advertising, interesting dials, and everything down to the Oysterquartz Perpetual Calendar (you read that right). It’s a more granular episode than most, but if you’ve been looking to get up to speed with the President, here’s a quick download. Plus,
Episode 57: Retroactive Bidding
Auctions aren’t new, not even close. And, if we’re honest, we could’ve played history better. Today, Erik & Max have given themselves a second chance to do so, going back through auctions of the last five years and picking out favorites in the 0-10K, 10-100K, and 100K+ hammer price brackets, respectively. There were so many great buys we all missed, and lessons to be learned from them. Links M
Episode 56: Q&A (Pt. 4)
Yes, it’s Q&A time again. You asked (in a big way!), we answer. All the insane questions you asked us and more. This round includes crucial questions such as TR900 vs 3970, the greatest 1016 variant, our favored vintage and modern Patek Philippes of all time, independent divers (where’d they go?), views on Glashütte Original. Links Mentioned:Glashütte Original:https://www.glashuette-original.
Episode 55: Great Unknown Modern Watchmakers & Their Watches
In Part 2 of the series, Erik & Max turn their eye to the lesser discussed watchmakers alive and operating today. It’s not just independents, but it’s mostly independents. Perhaps not those you may have guessed, however. From Hazemann & Monnin to AdC, Kuan Rao, and Jean-Batiste Voit, it’s all here. Plus, what should a nightclub owner retiring to the Spanish countryside to make wine sport?
Episode 54: Great Unknown Vintage Watch Brands
Wristwatches have been around awhile. And, in that time, a great many names haves have risen and then fallen. This week, Erik & Max discuss some of the great now-defunct watchmakers from years gone by, as well as some of their better works. And we really mean unknown. From a Tiffany-Only signed retailer calendar with a Patek calibre, to L. Leroy & Cie, where to find a JCK-half-off, or even
Episode 53: Undervalued Speedmasters, Why Independent Chronographs Matter, and the Le Mans Market
It’s start, stop, reset this week, as Erik & Max explore the ins and outs chronographs. The covers the Speedmasters we should all be talking about but aren’t, the true cost and impressiveness of independent chronographs, and what’s going on with the Le Mans.
Greubel Hand Made 2:
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-greubel-forsey-hand-made-2
Speedmaster Intro:
https://www.hodinkee.c
Episode 52: PCC, The Greatest Bloodline in Watches
Buckle up, as Erik & Max cover a complete chronology of Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph references this week. What separates the more desirable ones from the less but still very desirable ones? From 1518 to 5270, including 2499 vs 3970, this episode covers all points you need to start having informed conversations on the topic. Historic context, production numbers, differentiatio
Episode 51: Strap Etiquette and Why Roman Numerals Often Fail
Have you ever wondered if it’s appropriate to wear a dive watch on leather? This week, Erik & Max have the final answer. Plus, a Daytona on alligator? What about a VC 1921 Historiques on NATO? Contrast stitching? What faux pas exist in strap wearing if any? This, plus an analysis on Roman numerals, appropriate use, and critique of their frequent misuse. Finally, an Only Wrist to help out AP.
Episode 50: Ben Clymer
Today marks the 50th episode of the Hairspring podcast, for which Erik & Max are extremely honored to be joined by Ben Clymer, founder of Hodinkee. In a very candid and wide-ranging chat, we cover the arc of Hodinkee so far, Ben as a collector today, and his dream unlimited-budget 3 watch collection—amongst much else. This includes thoughts on what’s wrong with influencers, views on condition,
Episode 49: Enthusiast vs Collector vs Professional
In a bit of a first, this week is a philosophical rumination. What does it really mean to be into watches and why the hell should any of us be where we are? If you want to be a professional and make it a career, what options are available to you? And what’s the difference between a dealer and a retailer anyway? Erik & Max attempt to answer and so much more. Plus, if you’re bartending and want
Episode 48: Time ‘Only’?
Today’s independents aren’t battling over complication, they’re battling to perfect simplicity. Erik & Max asked you for your most expressive formats of Time Only watchmaking. Now, it’s time to relay some of the best three-handers the world has ever seen and why. This reaches far beyond the known models to Tortoise automatons, dad watches, 530s, Elegantes, and Klings.
Links Mentioned:
Max’s
Episode 47: Modern Watches, Excluding Independents, That We Love
Erik & Max attempt to defy the tropes of the podcast, opting for something a bit out of character. This week they attempt to give some examples of non-independent modern watches which are quite compelling. There are picks under 10K, all the way up to crazy values. Plus, a bit of a quick auction chat. From an Egyptian President's Day-Date to a Zenith G381, it’s all in here.
Links Mentioned:
Episode 46: Building a 100K 3-Watch Collection That Must Go Up in Value, Plus New Year’s Watch Resolutions
There is no way in which to avoid values when talking about serious watches; this week Erik & Max lean into that fact by building a collection around a bit of lighthearted speculation. Yes, that is faux pas behavior, but it is also a ton of fun. As a little bonus, they reflect on a year becoming more engrossed in watches to draw some resolutions for the coming year. Finally, an Only Wrist for
Episode 45: Common Misconceptions
Erik & Max embark on a myth-busting soirée which knows no bounds. Is Rolex a Charity? Why was the platinum Day-Date never fluted? Should hands always match? Was the helium escape valve invented when Rolex worked with Comex? Hint: it wasn't Was the Minute Repeater invented for a blind Patek Philippe client? Plus, if you're dating at 36, what should you wear?
Links Mentioned:
Anault Spying:
h
Episode 44: The Balance Cocks of 2000-2024
In this episode, Erik & Max bring back the awards ceremony that is the Balance Cocks in a follow-up to our Most Significant Independents of the Last 25 Years episode (34). This is the same format, just with a much wider scope. Over the last 25 years of watchmaking, we award 1. The Most Beautiful Watch 2. The Ugliest 3. The Greatest Calibre 4. The Greatest Depreciation 5. The Greatest Value Wat
Episode 43: State of the Collectors’ Market (Plus 100K for Integrated Complication)
Erik & Max pause for a moment to contemplate the last year or two of the deep enthusiast watch market and where things are at this moment. This includes both a macro overview with broad trends and a finer, nuanced take on specific models. In the words of Niels Bohr, ‘It is difficult to make predictions, especially about the future.’ Nonetheless, there’s a bit of that as well. While they normal
Episode 42: Tremblasé & Researching for Dummies
Erik & Max take a listener question to the extreme: how do you go about learning in watches? Where should you be pulling information from: mainstream media, retailers, auction houses, or even forums? This episode is a deep dive on how to structure learning, or at least how one might approach it. Also, has Gronefeld lost it with the Manueel? Plus, what does the most boring man in the world wear
Episode 41: Hot Takes (Pt. 2), Plus an Attorney of BLNRs
You asked, here are the answers. This week, Erik & Max read out and discuss your blistering hot takes, sourced from Instagram. The conversation could not be more varied, from snowflake vs Mercedes to 2499 vs 3970 including stops at Zenith’s 3019, bund straps, and ‘Should full rotors even have display casebooks?’ It’s all here, with an Only Wrist for an art thief.
Links Mentioned:
Snowcone H
Episode 40: Is Modern Patek Philippe Lost?
Much as they shy away from topical events, Erik & Max have to ask the obvious this week—but perhaps not in the way you think. While the conversation does come to rest on the Cubitus, this week’s chat is centered around chronicling the last two decades of slow and steady decline at one of the world’s greatest watchmaking houses. It’s not a roast; it’s a plea. From machining marks left bare on t
Episode 39: Would You Rather
Erik & Max have a surprisingly deep conversation around some devious watch-based would you rather questions. Plus, what do we make of the WoS Hodinkee move? Independent vs modern is addressed, LF vs Journe, and many other topics. This was intended to be quite unserious but it wound up trending that way. Finally, what should an English rock musician who appreciates US culture wear?
Links Ment
Episode 38: Definitely Not Iconic
Erik & Max are attempting the least-searchable list ever: what are the most un-iconic watches of all time? We all hate browsing listings and auctions only to see iconic watch after iconic watch. It’s meaningless as an adjective. This week’s episode pokes fun at the phrase by finding great watches that no one could possibly call iconic, alternative that are better just not definitely not icons.
Episode 37: Braving Looking Like A Fool & Desmosedicis (with Sylvain Berneron)
Erik & Max finally sync up with Sylvain Berneron to discuss his watches and just why they're being received so distinctly to anything else in the independent space right now. However, the chat doesn't just revolve around Berneron the brand, but Sylvain as a collector, the difficulty of branching out on your own, motorcycles, mid-century Patek, and, yes, even that fracas at Geneva Watch
Episode 36: Rare But Nobody Cares (Pt. 2)
Erik & Max are reviving a fan favorite segment: watches that aren’t widely produced, but also have zero attention being shined their way. There are watches everyone loves. Then there are watches that more people should, if only they were more known. This episode is about the latter category. Many, many obscure models here to go researching and learning on. Plus, what should an F-22 pilot wear
Episode 35: A LNOS, Scholarship-Changing Podcast
We all know the terms. We all know they’re BS. Today, Erik & Max talk about them no-holds-barred. We assess the hype cycles that are created around watches, the language of persuasion, and how you should go about being aware of these things while making watch decisions. Plus, TAG now have F1. How should they go about it?
Links Mentioned:
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/talking-watches-greg
Episode 34: The 10(ish) Most Significant Independent Watches of the Last 25 Years
Erik & Max have another first here, an awards ceremony. This is not the GPHG though, we’re covering a quarter century; go big or go home. Prepare for a dissection of early Journe, stories of a smashed Philippe Dufour, unexpected sales strategies, and descriptions of Max Büsser’s extreme handsomeness. We’re calling these the Balance Cocks. The first of, hopefully, many here.
Links Mentioned:
Episode 33: Q&A (Pt. 3)
This is Erik & Max’s first episode recorded together in person, for which they’ve saved a crowd favorite: Q&A. Yes, it’s time to answer your asks. Topics range from watches that surprised us to underrated vintage picks under 10K, the best skeleton QPs, real Chinese watchmaking, and the best independent at 200K. Plus, did Lange copy Movado? This is a relentless torrent of watch opinions wit
Episode 32: Great Omega That Isn’t the Speedmaster
This week is a first: a monobrand episode, but not as you might think. We are all given to love the Speedmaster, but there’s a whole world of Omega outside the Moonwatch that is waiting to meet you. This week, Erik & Max discuss some of the forgotten gems and rather beautiful references that stand in the shadow of Speedmasters. Just as some of the greatest-ever APs are not Royal Oaks, so too a
Episode 31: Interesting Versions of Boring Watches
Only in watches can one model or reference span from utterly dull to incredibly special depending on the variant. To highlight this unique facet of our world, Erik & Max select a handful of famous models across brands and categories, then attempt to find both the most boring version and the most exceptional or interesting version ever made. This one is a wild ride and as nerdy as it gets. Plus
Episode 30: What Grinds our Gears
Whether we call them pet peeves, grievances, or things that grind our gears, this week Erik & Max are enumerating all the tiny annoyances that get on our nerves in watches. Broad strokes, so as to not give the reveal away, conversational topics include photography, movements, selling watches, snobbery, significant digits, and many more. Finally, an Only Wrist for the Cold War.
Links Mentione
Episode 29: Building a 50K 3-Watch Collection . . .For Each Other
Erik & Max are accustomed to giving watch advice to others. They’re used to competing to build the best collections for a given category. But this one is . . .more intimate. This week, they’re building collections for each other. 50K for three watches: let the cards fall as they may. Plus, if you’re a star chef, how do you balance wanting something special with being in the kitchen?
Links Me
Episode 28: Uneven Discs (with Justin Hast)
Erik & Max are joined this week by their second ever guest, Justin Hast. Justin is a great champion for watch enthusiasm, a presenter, consultant, and content monster for all things wristwatches. We drill down on his own collecting philosophy, ask what the ultimate Lange 1 is, discuss the importance of brand, and how we go about learning in a changing media landscape. Plus, we ask Justin to as
Episode 27: Reference Punts (Pt. 2)
Erik & Max are back to it, asking which references have languished most over time and, more importantly, why? No manufactures are safe. We ask why the Santos got overweight, how Lange implemented cost-cutting, why the Freccione hand doesn’t make sense on a modern dial, and ask if Breguet are even alive? Finally, a few tips to make your watch photography sing.
Links Mentioned:
https://www.in
Episode 26: What Makes a Movement Great
Erik & Max attempt to answer a deceivingly deep listener query: what makes a given movement great? In a conversation that spans from column wheels, Valjoux VZ Audemars Piguets, and the in-house obsession, we attempt to answer. Then, Max asks a fairly impossible question: if you were given carte blanche to design any watch from any watchmaker, what would you do? Plus, an Only Wrist for a radiol
Episode 25: Price vs Value
Erik & Max are discussing just what value means in watches and relating it to price in a wide ranging discussion which covers Black Bays, 2499s, early Journes, and 5711 bracelets. Then, a little chat around lessons in watches that can only be learned the hard way. Plus, what is the correct watch for a son of the Sultan of Brunei?
Links Mentioned:
Price Vs. Value:
https://revolutionwatch.com
Episode 24: The Ultimate Three-Hand, Three-Watch Collection from the Holy Trinity
It’s a collection-building gauntlet this week; Erik & Max limit themselves to 3 watches, 3 handers, and the Holy Trinity. Prepare for a surprising degree of variance. And then a small interview with Max to learn a bit more about his background and an Only Wrist for an Art Thief. Plus, just where is Aldrin’s Speedmaster today?
Links Mentioned:
Bugatti Tourbillon:
https://www.youtube.com/wat
Episode 23: Silicon Dreams & Interrogating a Rolex AD
Erik & Max tour through some of the more significant innovations ever in the history of watchmaking to ask, ‘Where are all the innovations?’ Including conversations around silicon, dubious 3940s, and trench watches. Then we invite a Rolex AD to come give a peer behind the curtain of Rolex to see how things really work. Plus, an Only Wrist to save Boeing.
Links Mentioned:
Innovations:
https:
Episode 22: Q-Watches, SpaceX, and Oil Infrastructure
What does the Rolex 6238 black dial have in common with the Zenith 135? Why was Erik wrong to judge a green 5711? And what does Max think the first person to step foot on mars should wear for the occasion? All this and more, with a brief interrogation this week.
Links Mentioned:
The Gentlemen:
https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/the-gentlemen-watches-2024
Q-Ships:
https://en.wikipedia.org
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