The Demystifying Cosmetics Podcast
The Demystifying Cosmetics podcast, hosted by industry veteran Jennifer Cookson, explores the evolving world of cosmetics. It features conversations with chemists, formulators, product developers, and marketers about trends, innovations, and strategies shaping the beauty industry. The podcast aims to break down technical barriers and share insights driving the next generation of cosmetics.
Episodes
Why Your Skincare Stops Working After 30 Days
Before-and-after photos don't measure whether your skincare is working. They measure what already happened — weeks ago, at a biological level you can't see in a mirror.Dr. Maria Feliva, Co-Founder & CEO of CheckGen, joins Jennifer Cookson on Demystifying Cosmetics to break down molecular-level skin testing, Why the industry's standard measurement tools miss what actually matters, a
What Baby Skin Science Reveals About Barrier Repair — A Cosmetic Chemist's PhD Research
Skin barrier repair is one of the most used phrases in skincare — and one of the least understood. In this episode, cosmetic scientist and PhD researcher Ava Perkins uses the biology of premature infant skin to expose what the industry consistently gets wrong about barrier function, NMF, and what short-term hydration claims actually prove.Jennifer Cookson sits down with Ava — whose background span
Why Supply Chain Is Quietly Deciding the Future of Beauty with John Morgan
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer speaks with John Morgan, founder of Pelagic, about the invisible infrastructure behind beauty brands and why the supply chain may now be the biggest constraint on innovation, sustainability, and scale. From raw material sourcing and formulation flexibility to tariffs, oil volatility, redundancy, planning, and retailer pressure, this conversation
Skincare Ingredient Hype Cycles: Peptides, Ceramides, Exosomes with Gloria Lu
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer speaks with Gloria Lu, cosmetic chemist and co-founder of Chemist Confessions, about how skincare ingredient trends actually move through the beauty industry, and why some ingredients keep resurfacing while others burn hot and fade fast. From niacinamide and hyaluronic acid to peptides, ceramides, bakuchiol, growth factors, and exosomes, they unp
Can Sustainability Outperform Traditional Formulation? with Kailey Bradt
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer speaks with Kailey Bradt — chemical engineer and CEO of Sonsie — about what sustainability actually looks like when you move beyond marketing claims and into the real constraints of formulation, sourcing, packaging, cost, and consumer education. Together, they unpack why “natural” is not always more sustainable, how biotech is changing what’s pos
Building on Clinical Science and Kindness with Dr. Brent Ridge
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer speaks with Dr. Brent Ridge — physician, co-founder of Beekman 1802, and Chairman of Kindness.org — about building a clinically grounded skincare brand rooted in kindness.What began as goat milk soap made during the 2008 recession evolved into a longevity-focused brand centered on skin barrier health, microbiome-friendly formulation, and discipli
Eczema Isn’t “Sensitive Skin” - It’s a Barrier Disease with Jemila Alharazim
In this episode, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with Dr. Brent Ridge—physician, public health graduate, MBA, co-founder of Beekman 1802, and chairman of kindness.org. The conversation explores how Beekman started not as a beauty brand but from a chance farmhouse purchase, recession job loss, and a note from a farmer losing his herd of 100 goats. Dr. Ridge explains why goat milk's pH matches skin'
The Microbiome: What We Think We Know, and What We Don't Know
Using the Yanomami as an evolutionary reference point, Larry explains how industrialized life has dramatically reduced microbial diversity and function, why the missing piece may be a protective environmental biofilm, and why simple "microbiome-friendly" claims can outpace the science. Together, they explore what health should mean (resilience, not just "not sick"), why our too
Ethics, Consumer Power, and Supporting From Afar
In this special episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson steps away from formulation talk to address what many are asking right now: what are we supposed to do? With recent events in Minneapolis and the broader climate around immigration and civil rights, people are feeling overwhelmed and looking at one lever they still control—where they spend their money. Jennifer explores corpo
From L'Oréal Labs to Indie Beauty: The Real Cost of Formulation with Alec Batis
In this episode, Jennifer sits down with Alec Batis, whose 30+ year career in beauty spans R&D, marketing, and brand ownership. Alec shares his journey from L'Oréal chemist to founder of Sweet Chemistry, a science-backed skincare brand developed with SUNY Downstate Medical Center. The conversation explores the intersection of chemistry and marketing, the reality of cost-of-goods in beauty
Small Batch, Big Stakes — Andrea Cid on U.S. Beauty Manufacturing
Manufacturing is where beauty dreams are either built or broken. In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we go past the mood boards and into the factory with Andrea Cid—founder of Miami Growth Machine and owner of Concept II Cosmetics. With a global background spanning Chile, the U.S., the U.K., and Asia (Harvard Economics; Wharton MBA), Andrea breaks down what “small batch” really means—volume
Framing the Formula: How Visual Storytelling Shapes Cosmetic Brands
What do your products look like to the world? Beyond INCI lists and claims, beauty brands are built—visually. In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, Jennifer Cookson is joined by Anderson, the creative mind behind A-Son Agency and By-Anderson, whose photography brings brand philosophies to life. We explore how product photography, creative direction, and brand identity intersect to tell a cohe
Between the Headlines: Navigating Beauty, Science, and Integrity with Becki Murray
In this 30-minute conversation, Becki pulls back the curtain on what it really takes to write responsibly in beauty media. We talk about the pressures of maintaining editorial independence in a world of brand partnerships, and the blurred lines between transparency, trust, and truth.From navigating terms like “clean” and “non-toxic,” to resisting the urge to oversimplify complex science for the sa
Biotech Beauty: Hype, Hope, or Greenwashed Science?
The beauty industry is buzzing with terms like “lab-grown,” “bioengineered,” and “nature-identical”—but what do these really mean, and how much of it is science versus storytelling? In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we’re joined by David Breslauer, a synthetic biologist and the co-founder and CTO of Bolt Threads, a pioneering biomaterials company known for innovations like lab-grown spide
Finding Your Voice: Whitespace, Words & What Makes a Beauty Brand Stick
What makes a beauty brand truly memorable? In this 40-minute episode, verbal identity strategist Taylor de Diego shares how she helps brands uncover their whitespace and build a voice that’s unmistakably theirs.Taylor shares her journey from working at L'Oréal and MAC Cosmetics to launching her own company after experiencing firsthand the frustration of finding the right foundation shade.The c
Fragrance with Purpose: Building Sustainable Scent Strategies with Cassandra Browning
Fragrance has the power to spark memories, define brands, and create lasting emotional connections—but how can it also do good? In this 30-minute conversation, Cassandra Browning, founder of Fragrances for Good, shares her vision for a more conscious and innovative fragrance industry.With a degree in aroma and formulation science from the UK and experience spanning global fragrance houses includin
More Than a Molecule: What It Really Takes to Launch a New Cosmetic Ingredient with James Dillard
In this candid 30-minute conversation, James Dillard shares what he wishes he had known before launching a new cosmetic ingredient—and what every formulator, brand founder, and raw material supplier should understand about the realities of innovation in beauty. We explore: Why scientific elegance isn’t enough—and what actually moves decision-makers, the invisible gatekeepers that stall ingredient
The Scented Truth: Decoding Fragrance Transparency in Beauty
Today’s episode dives into the fragrant but often foggy world of fragrance in cosmetics. Joining us is Ashlee Posner, co-founder of Lucent Labs, a fragrance and formulation partner helping brands navigate the space between creativity, compliance, and consumer trust.Together, we explore the tension between artistry and regulation in scent:Why fragrance is often called a “black box” on ingredient la
Skinminimalism: Doing More With Less in Modern Beauty
In this episode, we're exploring the rising trend of skinminimalism: the art and science of streamlining your skincare without sacrificing performance. To help break it down, we're joined by Mark Broussard, founder of Desert in Bloom Lab—a formulation and manufacturing expert who's built a career helping brands create high-performing, science-forward products with purpose.Together, we explore:What
LCA Isn't the Whole Story: Rethinking Sustainability in Beauty With Evan Peters
From "low-impact formulas" to "carbon-neutral packaging," beauty brands love a sustainability claim—but what are those claims really based on?In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we sit down with Evan Peters, founder of Fairglo, to unpack the promise and pitfalls of Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs) in the cosmetics industry. We go beyond the buzzwords to explore how system b
Behind the Beaker: Victoria Fu on Science, Skincare & Speaking Truth
On this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we’re going deep with Victoria Fu—former L'Oréal chemist and one half of the dynamic duo behind Chemist Confessions. Known for blending scientific rigor with internet-savvy wit, Victoria shares how she and co-founder Gloria Lu built a platform that busts skincare myths, translates chemistry into everyday language, and formulates products that actually del
Cracking the Chemistry Code: Molecular Literacy with Colleen Kelley
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson speaks with retired chemistry professor and visionary educator Dr. Colleen Kelley, creator of Kids Chemical Solutions. Colleen shares how her comic books and playful curriculum are transforming how children—and adults—learn chemistry by treating it as a language. From teaching molecular literacy as early as age eight to shaping more
Beyond Breakouts: The Future of Acne and Aging with CLEARSTEM' with Mercedes Amans
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with Mercedes Amans, Head of Product at ClearSTEM, to explore the evolving science and strategy behind formulating products that are both acne-safe and anti-aging. Mercedes shares how ClearSTEM challenges outdated definitions of comedogenicity, leverages data from real consumers, and uses biotech innovation to fill a major
From Micro-Trends to Market Domination: The AI-Powdered Future of Beauty with Marta Ponzone
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with beauty trend strategist Marta Ponzone, founder of Terra Innovation Studio. Marta unpacks the power of micro trends and how they differ from fleeting fads. She shares how brands—big and small—can detect, validate, and act on emerging signals to stay ahead in a saturated market. They dive deep into the evolving role of A
Science of Spin? Decoding Cosmetic Claims with the Experts: Guests Abhishek Panchal, Dwight Tshudy, Constancio Gonzalez Obeso, and Zach Lipsky
n this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson brings together a panel of experts in cosmetic science to explore the fine line between truth and fluff in beauty product claims. From “deep nourishment” to “gene activation,” the group dissects real marketing statements, evaluating whether they’re scientifically supported or simply slick branding. With sharp insights, playful banter,
Behind the Beauty: How Cosmetics Go from Lab to Launch with Eva Sandnes
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Eva Sandnes, a seasoned natural product development consultant with over 20 years of experience in cosmetic formulation. They dive deep into the complex journey of transforming a beauty concept into a market-ready product, exploring the challenges of scale-up, regulatory compliance, and ingredient selection. Eva shares her ext
From Lab to Launch: The Secrets of Developing Safe and Scalable Beauty Products
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Nurit Koniak who shares her extensive experience in beauty and wellness branding, discussing how design, storytelling, and cultural context intersect to create compelling brand identities. She explores the evolution of branding in the digital age, the impact of geopolitical shifts on design, and the challenges of maintaining a
Green Chemistry & The Future of Beauty: Safe, Sustainable, and Effective with John Warner
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Dr. John Warner, a pioneer of green chemistry, to explore how sustainable chemistry is shaping the beauty industry. They discuss the misconceptions around “natural” and “synthetic” ingredients, the urgent need for safer formulations, and the role of green chemistry in reducing toxicity without compromising performance. With ov
The Science of Packaging: How Design, Sustainability, and Formula Work Together
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Alexander Kwapis, VP of Innovation, Design, and Engineering at Fusion Packaging, to explore the fascinating world of cosmetic packaging. They discuss the critical relationship between formula and packaging, how sustainability is shaping the industry, and the innovative techniques used to create unique, functional, and recyclab
Breaking Barriers with Fermentation: A Sustainable Revolution in Skincare with Barak Dror
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer is joined by Dr. Barak Dror, co-founder and CTO of Mycelium Biomaterials, to explore the future of fermentation in cosmetics. They discuss the science behind liquid and solid-state fermentation, the role of fungi-derived ingredients, and how these sustainable methods are revolutionizing the beauty industry. From tackling microplastic polluti
The Business of Beauty: Transparency, Sustainability and Success with Ed Schack
In this episode ofDemystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer chats with Ed Schack, founder of EES Cosmetic Ingredients, to discuss the art and science of building a successful cosmetic ingredient business. Ed shares his inspiring journey from being a history major to a leader in the cosmetic industry, offering insights into overcoming challenges, fostering relationships, and prioritizing people in ever
From Lab to Launch: Navigating the Beauty Manufacturing Process with Amy Hart
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with Amy Hart, Chief Innovation Officer at Elevation Labs, to dive into the world of cosmetic contract manufacturing. From navigating the complexities of product development to overcoming challenges in scalability, regulatory compliance, and sustainability, Amy offers invaluable insights for brands looking to partner with contract
From Safety to Claims: How MoCRA is Shaping the Beauty Industry With Nyree Bekarian-Mack
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer sits down with regulatory expert and clean beauty advocate Nyree Bekarian-Mack to discuss the modernization of cosmetic regulations under MoCRA (Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act) and its impact on the beauty industry. From safety substantiation to navigating regulatory gaps, Nyree provides a deep dive into the challenges and opportu
The Science of Sunscreen: SPF, UV Rays, and Skincare Myths with Mark Chandler
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson sits down with Mark Chandler, president of ACT Solutions Corp, to dive deep into the science and innovation behind sunscreen formulation. Mark, a 40-year industry veteran and expert in SPF technology, explains the differences between UVA, UVB, and UVC rays, how sun protection factor (SPF) works, and the future of sunscreen technology
Sustainable Packaging Innovations: Insiya Jafferjee on Reducing Plastic in Cosmetics
In this episode, Jennifer interviews Insiya Jafferjee, the founder and CEO of Shellworks, a startup focused on eliminating plastic pollution through innovative and sustainable packaging solutions. They discuss the challenges and opportunities in sustainable packaging for the cosmetics industry, the materials Shellworks is pioneering, and the broader implications of consumer behavior and regulatory
Unlocking Skin Health: Kristin Neumann on Microbiome-Friendly Skincare & Certifications
In this episode, Jennifer hosts Dr. Kristin Neumann, a microbiologist and co-founder of My Microbiome. Kristin shares her journey from microbiological research to founding an educational platform dedicated to understanding the human microbiome. They dive deep into the role of the skin microbiome, its importance in maintaining skin health, and the science behind microbiome-friendly certification in
Beyond Skin Deep: How Your Microbiome Shapes Skincare and Health with Elsa Jungman
In this episode, host Jennifer Cookson welcomes Dr. Elsa Jungman, a pioneer in microbiome-friendly skincare and founder of HelloBiome. Together, they explore the fascinating science behind the skin’s microbiome, its impact on overall health, and its role in skincare. Dr. Jungman shares insights from her journey, including her early struggles with skin sensitivity, which led her to a deep understan
Unveiling Haircare Chemistry: Valerie George's Journey into Hair Dyes and Innovations
In this episode, host Jennifer Cookson speaks with Valerie George, a seasoned cosmetic chemist, who shares her expertise in the world of haircare and hair dyes. Valerie takes us through her journey from studying biochemistry to becoming an expert in hair dye chemistry. Together, they explore the science behind different types of hair dyes, the challenges involved in formulating effective products,
Navigating Beauty Industry Regulations: Claim Substantiation, Risk, and Legal Insights with Avril Love
In this episode, host Jennifer Cookson talks with Avril Love, a legal expert in regulatory compliance for the beauty industry at K&L Gates. They discuss claim substantiation, regulatory oversight, and risk management for cosmetic brands. Avril provides valuable insights on how companies can navigate FDA and FTC regulations, avoid litigation, and manage marketing risks while ensuring their clai
Clean Beauty Revolution: Ingredient Safety, Transparency, and Sustainability with Christina Ross
In this episode, host Jennifer Cookson, an R&D expert in the beauty industry, talks with Christina Ross, Director of Science at Credo Beauty, about clean beauty standards, product safety, and sustainability in the cosmetics industry. Christina shares insights from her experience overseeing the Credo Clean Standard and offers a deep dive into industry challenges, particularly around ingredient
Beyond Beauty: Demystifying Sunscreen, Skincare, and Science with Dr. Julian Sass
In this episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, we dive deep into the science of skincare with Dr. Julian Sass, a renowned expert in personal care Research & Development. With a PhD in Biomathematics and Statistics, Dr. Sass has built a global reputation for breaking down complex cosmetic formulations and advocating for consumer education. We explore his groundbreaking sunscreen database, which has
The Role of AI in Cosmetic Product Development with Potion.ai
In the first episode of Demystifying Cosmetics, host Jennifer Cookson dives deep into the transformative role of artificial intelligence in the personal care and cosmetics industry.
Joined by Hajab Malik and Yahya Syed, co-founders of Potion AI, this episode explores how AI is reshaping everything from product development to consumer insights, and what the future holds for this rapidly evolving f
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