The SJX Podcast

Ep. 50 - Big Brands to Beat Aug 13, 2026 15:41 Episode 50 of the SJX Podcast rounds up recent reviews, including a review of a new book about Universal Genève chronographs, and the latest updates to long-running platforms from Breguet and Patek Philippe.The discussion also explores the intensifying competitive landscape in high-end watchmaking as big brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, and A. Lange & Söhne close the gap with many artisana

Ep. 49 - Independent Watchmaking Retrospective Aug 7, 2026 19:56 Ahead of Geneva Watch Days, which will feature 71 (mostly independent) brands in 2026, episode 49 of the SJX Podcast looks back at how independent watchmaking became the phenomenon it is today. SJX and Brandon trace its evolution from 1970s pioneers like George Daniels and F.P. Journe through the arrival of Daniel Roth, Philippe Dufour, and Franck Muller. The conversation also examines the avant-g

Ep. 48 - Horological Heatwave Aug 3, 2026 18:37 As Swiss watchmakers prepare for their summer holidays, episode 48 of the SJX Podcast rounds up some of the best summer-ready watches released in the first half of 2026, spanning nearly every price category.Show notes:00:40: Kollokium Projekt 2 Variant C01:34: Baltic Heures du Monde02:10: Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF00103:40: Seiko 5 Sports HUF Limited Edition04:25: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bu

Ep. 47 - Second-Chance Watches Jul 29, 2026 22:58 The return of the Vacheron Constantin Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar got us thinking about other technically interesting watches that showed promise but never truly found their footing.In episode 47 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss recent releases from Seiko, IWC, and Swatch before turning to candidates for a second chance, including the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars AP Escapement, the T

Ep. 46 - A Rolling Rolex Jul 24, 2026 11:10 In episode 46 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon and SJX examine the Swiss watch industry's June export figures, which confirm the strength of the American market and reveal the impact of the Royal Pop.The episode also explores Rolex’s unexpected activity in clockmaking, beginning with the brand's patents for a traditional inclined-plane clock that was hiding in plain sight at Watches & Wonders. We a

Ep. 45 - Pop to Drop? Jul 9, 2026 16:20 The unprecedented collaboration between Swatch and Audemars Piguet that resulted in the Royal Pop dominated the product's first news cycle, but market enthusiasm seems to have cooled off, with anecdotal evidence supported by broader search trends.On Episode 45 of the SJX Podcast, we look back at the launch, and discuss what future collaborators might do differently to avoid the same fate.We also l

Ep. 44 - Evolution, Not Revolution Jul 7, 2026 22:39 Episode 44 of the SJX Podcast covers new releases from Grand Seiko, Greubel Forsey, Vacheron Constantin, and Breguet. The common thread that ties these releases together is that each is an incremental update to a previous model. Grand Seiko's updates to the Evolution 9 collection are perhaps most notable simply due to the brand's larger scale, and for what this refresh indicates about how the bran

Ep. 43 - American Independents Jul 3, 2026 13:55 This weekend, the United States marks its 250th Independence Day — it's the perfect opportunity to reflect on recent American contributions to the field of horology.On episode 43 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the latest entry in this field — the Liberty 250 from 1776 Atelier — and break down the claim that 90% of its components are manufactured in the US. The conversation also discus

Ep. 42 - Inside Roventa-Henex Jun 1, 2026 25:50 Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex — a leading white label maker of Swiss watches — he needs to be. For episode 42 of the SJX Podcast, we visited Mr Biard at the company's secretive manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes.The discussion covers the emergence of the 'micro-brand' (including whether that term is still relevant), the factors facing

Ep. 41 - A Diamond in the Rough? May 17, 2026 13:01 Tiffany & Co. is one of the only major jewellers without a significant watchmaking programme. Episode 41 of the SJX Podcast examines the brand's past, present, and future under the leadership of Nicolas Beau, who is credited with building Chanel's watch business into what it is today.When it comes to watches, Tiffany & Co. is potentially a diamond in the rough — it's a uniquely American lu

Ep. 40 - Rexhep Rexhepi's Vision May 11, 2026 22:09 For the 40th episode of the SJX Podcast, we sat down with Rexhep Rexhepi in Geneva to learn more about his latest watch — the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback. Rexhep explains why he wanted to make a chronograph, and how the self-imposed constraint of a symmetrical layout resulted in a more refined overall construction.He also discusses the RRCHF's in-house escapement, and the trade-offs that were consid

Ep. 39 - Geneva Auction Preview May 5, 2026 13:19 The spring auction seasons gets underway in Geneva in just a few days. On episode 39 of the SJX Podcast, we look at some of the top lots that caught our attention at Phillips, Christie's Sotheby's, and Antiquorum.Auction dates (in order):Phillips: May 9 & 10Antiquorum: May 9 & 10Sotheby's: May 10Christie's: May 11 & 12Show notes:1:00: Patek Philippe Worldtime ref. 25231:20: Akrivia AK-

Ep. 38 - Independent Highlights from Geneva May 4, 2026 17:54 During Watches & Wonders, all eyes are usually on the major brands exhibiting inside the cavernous Palexpo. Episode 38 of the SJX Podcast rounds up the highlights from the smaller fairs like Time to Watches, and the independents exhibiting on their own around town.Among the standouts were Mathieu Cleguer, who debuted a novel escapement of his own design, Dominique Renaud who launched a high-am

Ep. 37 - Watches & Wonders 2026 Recap May 1, 2026 30:45 Episode 37 of the SJX Podcast recaps the biggest releases from the brands officially exhibiting at Watches & Wonders 2026. Highlights from the independent brands exhibiting around town will be covered in our next episode.Show notes:0:55: Rolex Daytona Rolesium Enamel Dial ref. 1265023:15: Rolex Yacht-Master II5:00: Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 'Jubilee' Dial8:30: Patek Philippe Celestial ref. 610

Ep. 36 - Day 1 of Watches & Wonders: Rolex Marks Oyster Centennary Apr 14, 2026 8:17 Episode 36 of the SJX Podcast comes straight from Watches & Wonders 2026. As ever, all eyes are focused on Rolex during the first hour of the event. SJX and Brandon unpack the brand's new models, which feature new materials and a novel industrial approach to enamel dial production.We'll be back soon with more live coverage of the industry's biggest event. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy

Ep. 35 - A New Era for Independent Watchmaking Apr 9, 2026 20:56 It's been a promising year for independent watchmaking, and Watches & Wonders hasn't even taken place yet. On episode 35 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss Rexhep Rexhepi's first in-house chronograph bearing his own name. What Mr Rexhepi does, others often imitate, so it's worth thinking about how the launch of this traditional-yet-novel chronograph will shape the future of the catego

Ep. 34 - Understanding Collector Psychology Apr 3, 2026 31:33 Why do watch debates get so heated, so fast — and why does no one ever change their mind? On episode 34 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon sits down with King Flum, collector and author of the ScrewDownCrown Substack, to dig into the psychology behind the arguments that define online watch communities.Drawing on research from psychologists including Jonathan Haidt and Dan Kahan, the conversation covers w

Ep. 33 - Affordable New Releases Mar 19, 2026 20:00 Seiko is on something of a resurgence, aiming to take back its reputation as a value leader after the emergence, over the past decade, of increasingly competitive micro-brands. On episode 33 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss the King Seiko Vanac, now available in titanium, and the Marinemaster, which has been transformed through a number of incremental upgrades. The discussion then turns

Ep. 32 - Watches & Wonders Wish List Mar 18, 2026 11:50 Watches & Wonders is less than a month away, so for episode 32 of the SJX Podcast we're talking about what we'd want to see from some of the major brands like Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko, and Tudor. It's always difficult to make predictions, and the best releases from every year are usually a surprise, but Andrew put together a few picks that we believe would be crowd-pleasers, were they to be

Ep. 31 - State of the Industry 2026 Mar 13, 2026 21:02 Episode 31 of the SJX Podcast digs into two major industry reports — one from Vontobel on the primary market and one from EveryWatch on the secondary — and what they reveal about where value is concentrating in the watch industry. SJX and Brandon discuss the K-shaped nature of the market, the dominance of F.P. Journe among independents, and Cartier's remarkable ability to sell across every price t

Ep. 30 - Jumping on Trends Feb 23, 2026 15:38 On episode 30 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss to what extent the latest crop of jump hour watches constitutes a trend. In just the first six weeks of 2026, several new jump hour models have been released, including a new collection from Audemars Piguet and the relaunch of the Niton brand, which is discussed in detail. Even the Louis Vuitton Convergence also fits into this trend aesthet

Ep. 29 - Louis Vuitton & De Bethune Travel in Style Feb 18, 2026 20:25 SJX has just returned from the Tokyo launch of Louis Vuitton's third independent watchmaking collaboration, this time with De Bethune. Episode 29 of the SJX Podcast covers what it means for both brands, and unpacks the details of both the GMT Louis Varius wristwatch and the monumental Sympathique clock that it can be paired with.Brandon and SJX also provide hands-on analysis of the Escale Worldtim

Ep. 28 - Audemars Piguet: Beyond the Royal Oak Feb 14, 2026 22:56 Recorded shortly after Brandon's return from Audemars Piguet's launch event in Switzerland, Episode 28 of the SJX Podcast provides analysis of all the brand's new releases, including the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, the 150 Heritage grand complication pocket watch, the upgraded Royal Oak Chronograph and its new in-house movement, and the latest open-worked perpetual calendar, which works equally well i

Ep. 27 - Perfectly Impractical Jan 25, 2026 16:16 Episode 27 of the SJX Podcast opens the archives to find the most impractical and illegible watches that somehow still manage to be worthwhile despite the triumph of form over function. It's a difficult formula to get right, and the landscape of fine watchmaking is littered with examples of watches that sacrificed too much at the altar of fashion. But those that strike the right balance are especi

Ep. 26 - Best of LVMH Watch Week Jan 19, 2026 17:03 Episode 26 of the SJX Podcast breaks down the best releases from LVMH Watch Week, which saw the return of the hand-painted Escale Worldtime. The slate of releases also includes a surprising new men's watch from Tiffany & Co powered by the Zenith El Primero, and the first all-new model from the modern era of Daniel Roth. Things are looking up for TAG Heuer as well, which launched a regular prod

Ep. 25 - Indie Investments and Odysseus Face-Off Jan 16, 2026 17:01 The SJX Podcast kicks off 2026 with an analysis of the latest industry news, including Chanel's 30% stake in Kross Manufacture and Vacheron Constantin's initiative to apply the concours format to watches. We also discuss the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in Honeygold ahead of an upcoming review, and compare its merits with its titanium sibling.Show notes:1:00 - Chanel invests in Kross Manufacture0

Ep. 24 - Best of 2025: Surprises and Unexpected Developments Dec 31, 2025 19:23 Episode 24 of the SJX Podcast covers the surprises and unexpected developments of 2025, a year marked by significant material innovation and bold statements from established brands. In this final episode of the year, SJX and Brandon discuss Rolex's landmark Land-Dweller with its revolutionary Dynapulse escapement, Breguet's experimental magnetic constant-force mechanism that achieved unprecedented

Ep. 23 - Best of 2025: Value Propositions Under US$10,000 Dec 29, 2025 13:22 Episode 23 of the SJX Podcast looks at value propositions under US$10,000 in 2025, a mixed year for affordable watches. While Tudor continued to refine its sports watch formula with the well-received Ranger 36, several micro-brands made compelling cases for themselves with distinctive designs and upgraded movements. The team highlights releases from Christopher Ward, Albishorn, and Kollokium that

Ep. 22 - Best of 2025: Complications Dec 26, 2025 14:06 Episode 22 of the SJX Podcast examines complications in 2025, a banner year that saw major brands deliver ambitious and record-setting complications. Several anniversaries, including Vacheron Constantin's 270th and Audemars Piguet's 150th, resulted in inspired releases. Show notes:00:45 - Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication4:00 - A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual6:15

Ep. 21 - Best of 2025: Independent Watchmaking Dec 23, 2025 19:40 Episode 21 of the SJX Podcast reflects on independent watchmaking in 2025, a year that saw fewer genuinely new releases than expected. Many familiar names opted for variations on existing models rather than bold new directions, making the standout pieces all the more significant, including Urban Jürgensen's impressive relaunch under Kari Voutilainen, two exceptional time-only watches that proved t

Ep. 20 - Live from Dubai Watch Week Nov 25, 2025 22:27 Episode 20 of the SJX Podcast comes to you live from Dubai Watch Week 2025, which has just concluded. The event brought together many leading independent watchmakers, industry executives, and perhaps most importantly a big audience of collectors from around the world. The new venue in Burj Park brought a more sophisticated feel to the event, which was by far the largest in its history. SJX and Bra

Ep. 19 - An Offer You Can't Refuse Nov 7, 2025 13:42 On episode 19 of the SJX Podcast, we unpack the news that Francis Ford Coppola is selling his personal F.P. Journe FFC prototype at Phillips in a few weeks (along with most of his other watches).We also discuss the legacy of F.P. Journe, which is coming into sharper focus ahead of the opening of his museum next year. The centrepiece of the museum is set to be the Breguet Sympathique no. 1, a

Ep. 18 - Sylvain Berneron is All In Nov 5, 2025 50:11 For episode 18 of the SJX Podcast, we sit down with Sylvain Berneron, founder of one of the most talked about new brands of the past few years. Fresh off the launch of the brand's first complicated model, the Quantième Annuel, Mr Berneron breaks down what it takes to start a watch business and stay on pace to produce a new model every year.Show notes:00:45 - Fine art to industrial design03:35 - Ho

Ep. 17 - Breguet's Big Pivot Oct 31, 2025 23:17 On Episode 17 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon has just returned from WatchTime New York, an event that has emerged as the flagship watch fair in the United States since its debut in 2015. SJX shares his hands-on impressions of Breguet's new ref. 7225, which features a return of the brand's magnetic pivots and is the highlight of the brand's 250th anniversary releases so far.We also examine the hamburg

Ep. 16 - Freak Face-Off: Original vs Freak S Oct 24, 2025 22:18 On Episode 16 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss ongoing horology events in Paris and Singapore, the new Piaget Andy Warhol, and introduce a new segment comparing two watches head-to-head. First up is the Ulysse Nardin Freak - how does the original, now 25 years old, stack up to the new Freak S?Show Notes:00:45 - Vacheron Constantin Singapore Event Summary1:30 - Rolex GMT Master event2:45

Ep. 15 - The Titanium Episode Oct 17, 2025 18:11 On Episode 15 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon shares insights picked up at Citizen's Super Titanium event in Paris, where he had the opportunity to speak with the brand's materials engineers. Still on the theme of titanium, SJX shares his views on the new Cartier Santos in the lightweight metal, and the different strategies of these brands which are playing to their respective strengths.Another big st

Ep. 14 - Primetime for Fashion Brands? Oct 15, 2025 19:18 On episode 14 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX unpack Louis Vuitton's Monterey and discuss where fashion brands fit in the contemporary fine watchmaking landscape. We also cover the latest from Lange, which just added a stone onyx dial to the Saxonia Thin - is it the perfect watch for your next soiree?Show Notes:0:45 - A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Black Onyx7:15 - Louis Vuitton Monte

Ep. 13 - MB&F Gives Away Anniversary Editions Oct 13, 2025 13:07 On episode 13 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX discuss MB&F's decision to give away 20 free watches - 10 pieces of a new LM101 Longhorn for Tribe members and 10 pieces of a matching M.A.D.1S for prior raffle registrants. It's a move that's generated a lot of buzz, and a little bit of consternation, but regardless it's a remarkable offer from one of the more successful independent bran

Ep. 12 - AP Reinvents the Chronograph, Big Brands vs. Indies, and VC CEO Oct 5, 2025 18:47 On episode 12 of the SJX Podcast, SJX shares his hands-on impressions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5, the fifth and final watch from the brand's R&D skunkworks.We also address listener questions about the (great) leadership at Vacheron Constantin, and whether brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin can gain ma

Ep. 11 - Quest of Time Oct 1, 2025 34:59 On episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the monumental Quête Du Temps astronomical clock that Vacheron Constantin just unveiled in Paris alongside the companion Quest of Time wristwatch. We also tackle Tudor's first moon phase complication and what it means for the brand's collection of dress watches.SJX also shares his views on the news that Rolex chief executive Jean-Fréd

Ep. 10 - Best of Geneva Watch Days Sep 16, 2025 41:37 On episode 10 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the highlights and hands-on impressions from Geneva Watch Days, including the Greubel Forsey QP Balancier, Lange 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel, Gérald Genta's new Minute Repeater, and the latest perpetual calendars from Audemars Piguet.We also discuss the significance of Tag Heuer's carbon hairsprings; after a short-lived launch in 201

Ep. 9 - Million Dollar Showdown: Steel Unicorns from Patek Philippe and Ferdinand Berthoud Face Off Sep 4, 2025 49:08 In episode 9 we discuss two noteworthy steel watches that will be coming up for auction in November at Phillips in Geneva: the Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3 and the Patek Philippe ref. 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph. We also share our thoughts on the new Massena Lab collaboration with Vianney Halter, and the intuitive new annual calendar from Berneron. We also reflect on our rec

Ep. 8 - Are Watches Too Expensive? Plus Thoughts on Bundling, and More. Jul 20, 2025 58:24 And we round up a few interesting new watches ranging from six-figure Vacheron Constantin to an affordable take on Konstantin Chaykin. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Ep. 7 - Urban Jürgensen, Spring Auction Season, and Breguet's Anniversary Launches Jul 5, 2025 1:02:30 SJX and Brandon Moore on recent happenings in watchmaking, starting with the comeback of Urban Jürgensen and the spring auction season that concluded in June. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Ep. 6 - Maximilian Büsser and 20 Years of MB&F Jun 10, 2025 54:47 SJX editor Brandon Moore sat down with Max Büsser to reflect on twenty years of disruptive design, and why the new SP One is the greatest gift he’s given to himself and the brand. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Ep. 5 - Geneva Auctions, Breguet, and Pocket Watches May 6, 2025 51:15 Thoughts on the first launch for Breguet's 250th anniversary, and the upcoming Geneva auctions that are surprisingly heavy on pocket watches and clocks. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Ep. 4 - Watches & Wonders 2025 Roundup Apr 13, 2025 51:18 Observations and takeaways from W&W. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Ep. 3 - Ahead of Watches & Wonders 2025 Mar 24, 2025 43:41 AP, Biver, Krayon and more. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Ep. 2 - SJX and Brandon Moore Feb 26, 2025 45:34 A bird's eye view of the luxury watch business with Swiss export statistics, Louis Vuitton and LVMH, and what we expect to see at Watches & Wonders 2025. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Ep. 1 - Adel al Rahmani and Syed Hamed Hosseini Dec 8, 2023 29:57 Welcome to the inaugural episode of the SJX Podcast. Here we will be having in-depth conversations with a variety of people from the very heart of the industry, discussing the topics that really matter. Here we are sitting down with Adel Al Rahmani, the Founder of Dubai Watch Club, and Syed Hamed Hosseini, a collector based in Dubai. Both take extremely different approaches when it comes to t

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